There are so many ways to say goodbye, but there is nothing
to prepare you for how you will feel after you actually leave.
Although it has been almost a year since I’ve left Quissico,
my latest adventure/vacation to the south of Mozambique was the actual last
time I will be there, and that, my friends. . is a harsh realization.
But I digress.
Southern Adventure Part I –
Remember that last post, where I mentioned why I was
traveling in the south? Bushfire music festival! It was everything that I was
hoping it would be and more. An excellent line up of bands some of my favorites included --
True Vibenation -
Freshlyground -
and lastly this guy named Stelth Ulvang -
there was running water in the campsite, a
wonderful mix of international people at the festival (musical groups included)
and Peace Corps volunteers from Moz, and various other Sub-Saharan Africa
countries. Bushfife was one big international party in a beautiful location,
great music, delicious food, and beautiful arts/crafts.
moz 18 reunited!
I traveled into the Kingdom of Swaziland (that’s right kids,
a kingdom) with some friends from Maputo, which allowed us some freedoms to
explore, stop for a snack/water etc. Along the drive, we cut through a national
park/wildlife reserve where we saw a giraffe cross the road right in front of
us!! I kid you not. A giraffe.
proof of giraffe
We checked into the festival ground, and set up our tents,
but as it was still pretty early in the day we decided to go for a hike at a
nearby geographical landmark - Mt Sibebe. It’s a granite mountain in Swaziland located
10km from the capital city Mbabane. It is the second-largest monolith in the
world and the largest exposed granite pluton, rising 350m above the valley of
the Mbuluzi River. We hiked for a few hours, to the top, around and back down
to the car. An excellent adventure that allowed me to see more of the beautiful
countryside of Swaziland.
hiking!
That night was the first night of the festival.. lots of
great music, good food, and dancing. The only downside was how cold it got at
night!! I am not accustomed to being able to see my breath, and had to layer up
on clothing and sleeping bag/blankets when we finally turned in for the night.
Fortunately Peace Corps volunteers are always down for a group snuggle, so the
four people in the tent was a blessing in disguise.
The next day was spent all on the festival grounds, music,
food, arts and crafts, a nap and dancing into the night. A truly wonderful day.
Sunday the group I traveled with left mid-day, after
enjoying some morning music on the lawn of the main stage and some lunch. From
the festival grounds we went to a hot spring called the Cuddle Puddle. I kid
you not.
This Cuddle Puddle is a famous spot in the kingdom - - after
the ceremony where the king chooses his new bride from numerous eligible women
(after lots of traditional singing and dancing, of course) the women who were
not chosen travel to this hot spring to participate in a ‘cleansing’ and
provide solace for one another. In my mind I was expecting sort of a sacred
spot, in the rocks with all sorts of flora and fauna around. However, due to
modern times, the hot spring has been converted into a cement pool haha! It
still is the natural hot spring water used, flowing from a few different
fountains throughout the pool, but it is hardly what I had been picturing after
reading about it. Either way – it was a great way to end the long weekend and
I’m happy that I was able to see another landmark in Swaziland.
the ladies at the puddle of cuddles
yes, thats the real name
Crossing the border that night was a very time consuming
process, many people were returning to Mozambique/Maputo city, and they only
had one guard at the border working immigration . . . needless to say we spent
lots of time waiting in line. Fortunately we kept ourselves entertained with
the game ‘heads up’ on my friends iPhone. If you’ve never played that game. . .
I suggest that you do.
new stamp!
Southern Adventure Part II –
Giving myself a full day in Maputo to relax from the
Swaziland adventure, I traveled to Quisisco on the following Tuesday. In pure
Mozambique fashion, the bus that was to have left the terminal at 8am, didn’t
depart until past 9, and then we were stopped by police . . numerous times. The
first time was the worst – we actually had to return to the city to get
permission from the Police Chief because the driver refused to pay a bribe to
the officers on the road. Fortunately we were only about a half hour outside of
the city, so it didn’t consume too much time. . .however it was just another
reminder of how broken the transportation system is here in Moz.
I arrived in Quissico early afternoon, and promptly felt
right at home. The entire time spent in Quissico I stayed with my old sitemates
– Sean and Kevin. It was great to have the Q-crew back together.
lagoon time
friends
My days there were spent visiting my local friends, going to
ACOMUZA for the weekly meeting, stopping by the hospital to see my old
colleagues there, and trips to the lagoon. The boys were incredibly welcoming,
and I ended up staying a little longer than anticipated. . but it was the
perfect vacation. I got away from Quelimane, was in a place where I felt safe
and welcome, I was with friends and family, and it gave me a chance to say some
final goodbyes.
The visit to ACOMUZA really tugged at the heartstrings. I
hadn’t told anyone that I was coming to visit, so when I waltzed in before the
weekly meeting started - - I caused somewhat of an uproar. The amount of arms
holding me, and kisses on my face were too many to count. Everyone was so happy
that I still remembered how to speak Chopi, and invited me to stay for the
meeting, and then lunch afterwards. I have no words to describe how welcomed,
loved, etc that I felt. Lots and lots of emotions and feelings. I love the
people of ACOMUZA, that will never change.
Visiting Tia Julia was also incredible. I spent a solid few
hours at her shop during my visit. I was able to see most of the family, and
was amazed at how quickly her grandchildren have grown. The love and support
that Tia Jula and Sr. Osmand have shown me, and continue to via phone
communication is a great part of why I have had such a wonderful experience in
Mozambique. Finding people like that in any walk of life is what makes
adventures so special. Needless to say, there were tears and heavy hearts when
I said my final goodbyes. I plan to stay in touch, and hope to visit
Mozambique/Quissico later in my life.
Southern Adventure Part III –
The vacation still isn’t over?? Nope! There was one more
place I had to go and despedir (to
say goodbye). Tofo beach.
One of the most incredible and beautiful beaches I’ve ever
been to. The sleepy beach town along the shore adds to the beauty, and the sun
and surf top it off. I spent a long weekend there with the boys, we posted up
in one of the many backpackers there, renting out dormitory beds (bunk beds).
Which is always nice, because you are offered the opportunity to mingle with
various people, who often are from other places in the world. We met some cool
people, spent long days on the beach, swimming, napping in the sun, playing
catch with our football etc. I couldn’t have asked for better weather, or
people to spend the last few days in the south with.
Tofo is one of those places that will always hold a special
spot in my memory.
I hopped the 4am chapa from the beach to Maputo Monday
morning, and met an interesting individual who works for Doctors Without
Borders who needed some assistance getting around Maputo once we arrived. I was
happy to help, and showed him a bit of real Maputo life – always fun to see an
American’s face the first time they get on a packed inner-city chapa, and the
comments they make while sitting in the marketplace having a beer and some
lunch. I was happy to help where I could, and enjoyed our conversation.
Rather than taking the epic bus ride back to Quelimane, I
splurged and purchased myself a plane ticket with some of the remaining money I
had from the travel stipend Peace Corps grants us for purchase of our plane
ticket to the USA. Writing this from the airplane - - I am so happy that I made
the purchase. 26 hours alone on a bus, verses 2 hours on a plane. . I arrive
the same day, during daylight hours, and it was only about 3,000 meticals
difference (less than 100 USD). Blame it on the third year, blame it on wanting
some comfort, etc but I’m damn happy that I chose this mode of transportation
haha.
In closing – I am not thrilled to be returning to Quelimane.
I have some housing issues that I still need to attend to, and work has
essentially come to a screeching halt – leaving me to find ways to fill my
days. I only have 45 days until I’m back in Maptuo, and 50 until I’m stateside.
The time is coming to a close, so I’m going to try and enjoy my last moments in
Mozambique the best I can.
Upcoming events include Mozambican Independence day, June 25
– the Yoga Retreat, July 3-5 – our Despedida
(going away party) for the 20’ers and myself, July 18 – and then my birthday,
July 28.
We are starting our descent, so I will leave you to enjoy
the remainder of your day. Beijos.
