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Quelimane, Zambezia Province, Mozambique
A small look into what my personal experiences in Mozambique are like. Written as a stream of consciousness, these are my thoughts, my successes and my failures. Life is all about the moments that we live in. I hope that the moment you take out of your life to read this blog is a positive one. The views and opinions in this blog are my own and do not reflect those of the U.S. Government or U.S. Peace Corps.

Tuesday, December 31, 2013

feliz novo ano

Happy Holiday season (continued)
I hope that everyone had a safe, and joyous Christmas, a nice start to Hanukkah and Kwanza and something fun planned for New Years Eve!

I journeyed about 3.5 hours north of my site to a remote town called Cumbana Agricola, a very “matu” (in the bush) site about a 5km walk off of the EN1. I had some friends stay at my house the night before to break up their travel time, so we all awoke on the 24th, had some French toast and coffee, then hit the road – stopping in Maxixe to buy provisions like water, food, booze etc. this was a BYOeverything kind of event, so we wanted to be prepared.

We all hopped in a chapa (there were enough of us that we just ended up renting it out) that took us to the turnoff to the town. From there a friend of our fellow PCV who had a car to take us right to his house met us! Talk about the importance of ‘knowing a guy’ haha that walk would have been a killer with all of our luggage, food and water.

Our friends house is no bigger than mine, but a big difference is that he doesn't have energy any of the time, his neighbors have a small generator, so they can have a few lightbulbs at night, but my friend relies on solar panels and such to charge his computer and cell phone. It made me think about how fortunate I’ve been in this experience to have energy the entire time. Yes it isn’t always reliable, especially during the hot season, but I do have it a majority of the time, which allows for my refrigerator, electric kettle, and my computer to function. What can I say, I’m spoiled haha!
But back to the Christmas celebrations. . . words cannot describe the beauty that lay before us at Cumbana Agricola. . . I have a spectacular view of the lagoon and ocean at my site, but my friend can see the ocean from his front porch. Its about a 30 minute walk down to the beach, and you will not encounter a single soul on the walk or on the beach. Beautiful clear blue water, fun waves to play in, and lots of wood nearby so we could build a very big bonfire. Not a shabby way to spend Christmas if you ask me.

The stars at this place were incredible. . . now, I’ve seen some amazing stars here in Mozambique, and in South Africa – but being this far removed from any sort of power source, city, etc. . . .it was humbling just how beautiful the night sky was. There was even a full moon the one evening, so we had our own natural light on the walk back from the beach. I used a friends “bug hut” (a mesh tent with no rain-fly) to camp, so I had a perfect view of the stars and moon when I went to bed each night.
We spent a few days there, just soaking in the sun and surf, enjoying spending time with one another. There was a Yankee Swap for gifts, lots of good food (all cooked on an open fire) and plenty of wine to go around - all in all, a very different, but very fun Christmastime celebration.

I traveled to Inhambane City on my return south, and spent a day or two there before coming back to site. Its nice to be home, but there isn’t much to do here really . . . everyone is traveling for the holidays and its raining a good bit (welcome back rainy season!). I remember last year at this time being here at my house with my Mom – still a bit new at this Peace Corps thing, so exploring town was equally as fun for her as it was for me. If only she could see me now, my house finally a home, I have good friends and family in town, and I finally feel that I have a grasp on this crazy life here in Mozambique.
I’ll be spending New Years Eve with Dona Julia and family, like last year – and I believe that my sitemates will be joining me in the festivities. I am really looking forward to it, and will be baking lots of goodies today to take with me to the party. I’m thinking and apple crisp, maybe some sugar cookies, and a banana crumble? Thoughts or suggestions are welcome!

Oh, one last thing-  and I hate to leave a post with a sad note . . but. . . Lua had her puppies while I was gone. Apparently there were only three of them, and all were stillborn. I discovered their bodies buried in my front yard when I came home. Lua is now much skinnier, and I think is going through a doggy version of depression. She sleeps a lot of the time, and really doesn't like to be very far from my side. She hasn't been eating much, which worries me. . .so I’m keeping a close eye on her, giving lots of hugs and smoochies, and hoping for the best.

Tomorrow is New Years Eve, not my favorite holiday by any means, but here in Mozambique I’ve had a nice time of it, and am hoping for a good year as well. This new year will bring a lot of changes to my life, the end of my Peace Corps adventure, hopefully the start of graduate school, and all sorts of new adventures to come. I appreciate all you faithful blog readers for sticking with me through this experience, and hope that you are enjoying it as much as I am!

A big bear hug, and sloppy smooch from Lua and I for your midnight countdown this year! I’ll be there next year with my party hat on to celebrate!

Boas Entradas! Happy New Year! Feliz Novo Ano!

-t


Sunday, December 22, 2013

snow? or sand and sun

Hello everyone!
So its been a fun few days here in Mozambique, I have been traveling, taking advantage of the lagoon here at site, and spending time with my new sitemates!
As I wrote in my last blog post, I had plans to travel to the northern part of Inhambane Province to see two friends who live there.  The first stop I made was Mabote, an inland town about 3 hours off of the EN1. It was a dirt road to get there, full of potholes, cows, and dense vegetation on either side of it- a cool experience heading out to the “bush”. The town itself wasn't too different from my home here, something I have discovered here – EVERY town looks the same, its just the surrounding area that may be a bit different. I loved my friends house, she lives in a canico (reed) house, just like mine, but it is circular and has a thatch roof. She has made the small space so homey, and it is so wonderful that we enjoyed just lounging around on a very hot day together.
I enjoy going to new towns/seeing new places, but as I said, all towns kind of look the same – so what I am really doing on these trips is going to see my friends.
I spent two nice days with my friend in Mabote, and then headed back out to the EN1 to hitchhike up to the verrrrry top of Inhambane Province, where I had to head east from the national road towards the coast to get to my other friends town. Again, the town was very similar, just the terrain a bit different, less palm trees, less vegetation, many more goats.  On this part of my travel I was able to meet some new volunteers, and spend time with some old friends. It was a lovely sleepover that lasted an extra day because of some torrential downpours – travel in this country isn’t all that fun when the roads are flooded.
I think it is safe to say that I have now seen most of Inhambane Province the interior, and the coast.
For Christmas, I am going to another friends site – a private beach about a 45 minute walk off of the EN1 (no paved road for cars to enter). So I will be without energy/cell reception etc for the holiday. I think there will be about 15 people in attendance, it’ll be a camping adventure in the bush, on a private beach – a classic Peace Corps experience.  New Years Eve I will be here at site, spending the holiday with Dona Julia’s family, just like last year. Looking forward to each day, and time spent with friends who have become family.
Like last year, it just doesn't feel like the “holiday season”. There are no carol’s in the air, no snow, no decorations anywhere – but unlike last year, I’m not really bothered by it. I remember feeling a bit sad/lonely about missing holiday traditions at home, but (and this may be cynical) here, its honestly just another day. . . I am going to enjoy the time spent with other volunteers, and the beautiful beach, but it wont feel like Christmas- just another trip to a great beach. TOUGH life right? I am not trying to convey any ill will or bad attitude, just sort of a ‘shoulder shrug’ towards the traditional western holiday season here.
I am on leave from work until January 6th, so after Christmas with my friends, I’m going to go to Tofo beach for a day or two, then will be back here at site for New Years Eve. Like I stated previously, I have been taking advantage of my days off to travel, go to the lagoon often, get my workout on, and hang out with my new sitemates.
Yesterday the three of us ventured up to Inharrime so I could introduce them to the modista (seamstress), find them some wicker furniture like I have at my house, and so they could get a grill made. Such men, wanting to kill chickens and grill meat (beats chest). Just kidding. . . kind of. They are great guys, I truly lucked out in the sitemate selection.
So, once I get back to work in January, I’ll have about 6/7 months left. . .where the time has gone, I really have no idea. Grad school applications have all been received, I have confirmation emails from each school, and hopefully I will be notified of decisions in 3-6weeks.
HoHoHo, be merry, be peace, be love.

t

Friday, December 20, 2013

a few days late

(this blog was written last week.. sorry!)

Good Morning!
I apologize for the lack of posts recently, its not that I’ve been incredibly busy, its that there isn’t much to report from here in Moz.
At home I’m sure everyone is decking out their houses for the respective holidays, enjoying time with friends and family, being cold and miserable about the snow (don't! I would love to see snow) – have a hot chocolate for me! Here, its getting to be very very hot, and the rainy season is almost upon us. I woke this morning to veryyy dark clouds, Mom- you remember what it was like here in rainy season – everything shuts down when it's a downpour, my house floods a bit, and everyone just hangs at their houses. So that's what I’m doing this morning, I have some coffee in my french press, some oatmeal on the stove, and Lua sleeping at my feet. Not a bad Friday morning if you ask me.
Sooo . . . to recap what has been going on here in Quissico – the biggest event happened last week Friday – I received two Peace Corps sitemates! Yayy! They are two great guys who will be teaching at the local secondary school. Their house is about a half hour walk from mine, which is nice because I can keep my own identity here with my friends/family, but still have the option of going for an afternoon beer with friends. Their house is supahhhhh nice, cement, lots of space, great open windows for the light, a beautiful kitchen etc. makes my house look like the little grass shack that it is haha! But I wouldn't trade my little casa for anything else. This is perfect for me – I cant believe I’m going to have to say goodbye at some point.
Now that December has hit, many people have gone off for the holiday, work has stopped at ACOMUZA and Despertai until January 6th, and next week is the last week for CCS at the hospital. But honestly, there isn’t much for me to do there right now, so this weekend I have some travel plans! I have two great friends that live in the northern part of Inhambane Province, in the towns of Mabote, and Nova Mabone. These places are probably 10 or more hours from Qissico. -Literally from the bottom of the province to the top. My two friends always pass through my site, and have stayed with me numerous times, and yet I have never returned the favor, so this weekend – I’m going to the MATU! They both live off the EN1 in these small communities out in the bush. I’m looking forward to spending time with them, seeing their houses, and their communities. Speaking of. . . I should probably pack haha! I’m going to sleep the night in Maxixe at a friends house, 2 hours north of me, because her organization has a car going to the northern part of Inhambane, and I plan to be in it. The neighbors have agreed to feed Lua while I am gone so I’m not concerned about her.
Last weekend I showed the boys and Naira the lagoon, we packed some snacks, Kevin brought his lacrosse sticks, we had music . . .what more is there to ask for? The remainder of the weekend was chill, I tried to help out the boys, showing them where to find things in town, helping them set up their house etc. .  And now it is Friday already?! This week passed by rather quickly . . I wonder if time will start passing even faster now. I have between 6 and 7 months left in my contract. Wild.
December is going to be filled with this travel, and then something nice for Christmas. New years eve I will be here at site with Tia Julia and family, like last year. Looking forward to her excellent cooking, and just hanging out with great friends. What does everyone else have planned for the holidays? I’d love to know!

Your friend in Moz - tay

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

a quote

I am never quite sure how to start blog posts. So this time around- I’m going to start with a quote.
“All our dreams can come true- if
we have the courage to pursue them”
~Walt Disney

I interpret this as, if a person has enough gumption to do something out of the ordinary (like move to an African country for two years) anything is possible. I found this quote stuck with me because of my recent applications for graduate school. I’m not a prime candidate for some of the programs I applied for – I have no research experience, and Peace Corps has been my first real ‘job’ aside from the numerous part-time ones I worked in the states.  I have received confirmation emails from Pitt, Boston, Hopkins and Maryland that my application was delivered, and currently under review.

I find myself growing more and more restless here in Quissico as the days go on. I remember having similar feelings before leaving the states for Peace Corps- sort of an “itch” to start something new. Maybe my attention span is only good for a year and a half until I’m ready for the next adventure. It’s not that I don't love it here, because I still very much do- not only is it geographically stunning, the people are wonderful, I have great neighbors, a cool house, and a funny-looking dog … what’s not to love? It’s just that life here is starting to feel so routine. . nothing really is new. I go to work, and then I come home. Womp.
-       I don't know if this change in perception is because I was briefly home, and realized just how many things there are to do in the states compared to here – or if I’ve just exhausted the possibilities here in Quissico.

Work at Acomuza continues to go along smoothly. I have some plans with a few coworkers to start a medicinal plant garden right in the front of our property. We can then use the plants to create holistic remedies, like dried moringa powder, to give to our clients – or possibly even sell in the market as an income generation project. As the holiday season approaches, people will be going on break starting next Friday the 13th and not coming back until the 5th of January or so.

The relationship I formed between CCS (my organization at the hospital) and Acomuza continues to go well. We have started passing out the “busca cards” which are basic information cards of people who have abandoned treatment, and with these cards the activists here go out into the field and try to find these people and encourage a return to the hospital. We have also been quite successful in the creation of GAAC groups, support groups of 6 persons or less, for people living with HIV/Aids. These groups help divide the work and cost of a hospital trip to receive ARV medication. It also creates a basic form of responsibility for patients, keeping them accountable to their group members to take their medication, and go to the hospital when it is their assigned turn. It is a great program, that I personally hope gains more traction here in my community, and nationwide.

My new site-mates come this Friday, so I’m excited about that. I am still not sure where exactly they are living, but it’ll be nice having some Americans close by – rather than the hour to two hours as it is now.
I have decided that Lua is indeed pregnant. Sigh . . . . I tried so hard to give the “birds and the bees” talk, and keep it from happening, but nature ran its course I suppose. I’m going to estimate a due date of late January. Babies. . . ugh. Hopefully I can find a good home for each of them, either to other volunteers, or friends/family here in Quissico. The time will come to do the same for Lua, looking at costs for bringing an animal home – they are outrageous! So she will stay here in sunny Mozambique, hopefully with someone who loves her equally as much.

Not too much more to report. Life is dull, and I’m not entirely happy with a lot of things these days… trying to keep my head up through it all, and just know that with life (wherever you are) there are “peaks and pits” right now, I’m just in a rut. It’ll get better soon.

Thank you to all who sent thanksgiving wishes and good words – I really appreciated them! I was able to chat with my family a bit on turkey day, which is always a treat.

X’s and O’s


t