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Quelimane, Zambezia Province, Mozambique
A small look into what my personal experiences in Mozambique are like. Written as a stream of consciousness, these are my thoughts, my successes and my failures. Life is all about the moments that we live in. I hope that the moment you take out of your life to read this blog is a positive one. The views and opinions in this blog are my own and do not reflect those of the U.S. Government or U.S. Peace Corps.

Monday, June 30, 2014

its the final countdown

Morning everyone!

Sorry it has been a while since my last posting, it has been a very busy few days for me. Where I last left off, it was the day before the GAAC toolkit weekend with fellow Peace Corps Volunteers, a representative of the CDC, and our supervisor from Peace Corps. The purpose of this weekend was to take all of the documents and things we had been compiling over the weeks on a google drive, into a working Toolkit for the GAAC program. During this meeting (Thursday through Saturday) we were able to complete a working mandatory checklist for all health centers interesting in having the GAAC program, two skeletons of informational flipbooks to train health staff and patients, and a 10 page toolkit (rather than the 45 page one in existence) that will be used to present to the Ministry of Health.

For those of you who haven’t read my past few blogs, GAAC is a community-based ART distribution and adherence-monitoring program by self-forming groups of patients on ART. This is  a great program not only because it creates a community based strategy for helping adherence to HIV treatment, it also helps reduce stigma and discrimination of patients, and helps increase the retention rate of those on the medication. We spent our time at a beach house (I know… though work weekend right?) and after our long and productive days some of us watched the world cup games that were on, while others cooked. It was a fantastic weekend. Productive, and enjoyable. I love when my coworkers are also friends. . . it creates a great work environment.

After this weekend, I had plans to return home to site, but my boss had other plans for me. I instead went to Maputo to participate in numerous meetings on Monday and Tuesday, to present what we had been working on that weekend. I was able to stay with a friend in the city, which was nice- first world comforts, and long working days. It almost felt like I had a real job and was a productive human being haha something that can be rare in a health volunteers life here. We are currently working on finalizing the presentations and toolkits to be given to the Ministry of Health, and the various partners (I-NGO’s that fund the health centers and the GAAC program), and I am helping Peace Corps with defining the PCV role in the GAAC program, in addition to a few other things they have me working on.

I got back to site on Thursday, after having spent Wednesday (which was Mozambique’s independence day) at Bilene Beach with a few close friends. We hung out on the beach, sat on the boat that stays tied up in the water- because we are too cheap to actually pay to have it take us around, cooked good food, and played some fun games. Never a bad time hanging out with good friends at one of my favorite spots. That’ll probably be the last time I’m there for a long time, if ever. Which is such a crazy thought.
hanging out at Bilene



The testing center here in town is open and running every day, which is amazing! I’m so happy that this project came though, and seems to be going well. There are still some kinks to iron out, and things to fix, but hopefully the next volunteer can help with the upkeep of the center. I posted a bunch of photos on facebook, but will put some on here as well.
Oscar opening the center for the day

testing our first patient

what it looks like from the outside.

The puppies are getting really big, they all have their own personalities, and have started to recognize me. We play together, and they are eating solid food now (xima, fortified with dried milk powder, and dried shrimp) Lua is continuing to nurse them, but not as often. I am a bit worried about how skinny she has stayed. Not really sure why she isn’t gaining weight back. . . hopefully her life in Panda is a good one. . . I cant believe I have to say goodbye to her in a week. Its going to be really really tough. The puppies all have homes, and will be looked after.

puppo's hanging out in the yard

I really cant believe that I have two weeks left. That's it. Its Monday the 30th, in two weeks I’ll be waking up in Namaacha, and from there, moving forward with my life here in Mozambique. I couldn't even imagine if I was actually moving back to the states.. that's insanity. WHERE DID THE TIME GO?

Just so everyone is clear about what is happening in my life these next few weeks- I will be in Quissico until the 12/13th of July, from there, I will be going to Namaacha to be a visiting volunteer for the new volunteer’s training. When that is over on the 20th of July, I will move to Maputo to work with Peace Corps, ICAP, and hopefully the CDC until August 6th, when the new volunteers swear-in. From there, I fly with them to Nampula City, where I participate in their supervisor’s conference, and then I will bus south to Quelimane – where I will be living until August 2015. The volunteer that I am replacing will be in Quelimane for about a month of overlap time, so I’m still not sure what my housing situation will be like for the first month I’m there. By September I should have the home I’ll be in for my third year. I get home leave from December 10th to January 10th, which will be a nice break- 30 days stateside to see friends and family over the holiday season. Aside from the fact that the cold weather will shock the hell out of me, I am really looking forward to the visit.

Lots of life changes coming up in these next few weeks. . . just trying to stay on top of it all. Today I went to the hospital for a bit, but then came home to start going through my home here. I have plans to put things in bags (I can have 2 bags and a box) on Sunday… so I’m just doing a lot of the prep work this week. I’ll be selling my refrigerator to the boys here, but aside from that, leaving a majority of the things for the next volunteer.

I kind of have the same feeling I did before leaving the states for Peace Corps. . that anxious, butterfly in the stomach, procrastinating packing, and not really wanting to say goodbye feeling. I know that it has been an incredible two years, and am very happy that my adventures here in Moz aren’t over yet… but this is the first “home” I’ve made on my own as an adult. . it will be very hard to say goodbye.

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

looking both ways, before crossing over to my 3rd year

Hindsight is always 20/20. Or so that is what they say.

Looking back over my 2 years here in Mozambique thus far, my time spent during training in Namaacha, and then my placement in Quissico, and all of the traveling I have done in between. . got me to thinking. Would I have done anything differently?

Going all the way back to my preparation leading up to Peace Corps, I do think I should have tried harder to learn the basics of Portuguese. When I arrived in country I really had no idea what was about to happen, and until I was immersed in a language I didn't understand did I realize the necessity. Its something that we tend to take for granted in the US I think. . . the ability to communicate easily and rapidly with anyone. When I arrived here, I didn't even understand or know how to ask for a cup of water. It was the very basics for me. Because of this- I don't think that my PST experience in Namaacha was all that it could have been.

Once arriving here at site, I immediately began to integrate into the community. I was doing home-based visits with my community organizations, trying to find my place at the hospital, and doing my best to overcome the language barriers- day by day, becoming more comfortable with Portuguese. Looking back over the 2 years here in Quissico, I wouldn't really change anything. I have enjoyed my time here, I have been exposed to numerous life experiences and lessons. Some days (ok . . .weeks) have been extremely hard here, while some have been the best times of my life thus far. .  I have made a small reed hut, into a home. Making friends and family here in Quissico has molded my experience here into a loving and welcoming one. When I spend time with them life feels completely at peace. And, I have been fortunate enough to find a loving companion who has been with me for over a year now – my dog Lua.

From my ‘home base’ in Quissico, I have traveled all over the southern part of Mozambique, in addition to a few places in the central and north on extended trips;
I traveled to the Chimoio and Gorongoza area, over land, in the central for Thanksgiving of 2012. That area is now considered a “war zone” because of the ongoing political strife. I was flown to Nampula City last September for the REDES Handover, and took that opportunity to travel to Ilha de Moçambique and Pemba over land. I have had the opportunity to visit almost every volunteer site here in the southern provinces, especially now because of our limited travel abilities dividing the country. From the most rural areas inland Gaza and Inhambane, to the beach towns- I have had the opportunity to really see the beauty the southern part of this country has to offer.

I was fortunate enough to have 4 visitors here to share in my joys and frustrations. My mom visited over the New Year of 2013, which was hot, rainy, and wonderful. She came quite early into my service –which was both wonderful and (in hindsight) unfortunate for her. I was still trying to gather my bearings here in this country, struggling with the language, figuring out the best ways to travel etc. So she was exposed to the very raw and unrefined life of a PCV. The safari that we went on in South Africa was such a wonderful adventure! The incredible animals we were able to see, the new lessons that we learned, and spending time together. Couldn't have asked for more.

Next was my dad’s visit in June-July 2013. . .he came to Mozambique, via South Africa and Zambia. That was one of the best adventures I have ever been on. Seeing Victoria Falls, some new spots in South Africa (Durban and Pretoria), and then taking him to my favorite spots here in Mozambique! At the time that he visited, I was so much more comfortable with my life here, knowing how to navigate the transportation system, good places to stay at the beach, and just feeling more at home here at my site.

A decent amount of time passed before my next visitor came- during that interlude I was sent home to the states for emergency leave when my dad was sick, the holidays came and we welcomed in 2014, starting the anticipated final year of service!

In March of 2014 my aunt came to visit. I met her in the capital city of Maputo, and our adventures took us to a few beaches here in the southern part of Mozambique, and we even flirted with the idea of flying up to the north to do some traveling there(decided not to because of outrageous prices).  While we were at my site I showed her around, taking her to work, to the lagoon etc. It was really wonderful having her here because she was also a Peace Corps Volunteer in Africa (Kenya). Although the time difference between our services has allotted for many changes, like everyone having cell phones, electricity in small towns etc – many things are still the same; like the food and manner of transport. While she was here, I was able to really think about (and ultimately decide) about extending my contract for the third year. It was absolutely wonderful having her here in Mozambique, and I wish she could have been here a bit longer.

Last month, May 2014, I had my final visitor for my 2 year service- my brother! It was his first time to the continent of Africa, and he experienced the highs and lows of Peace Corps life. After having some luggage trouble with the airline, we made it to my site, from there we did a beach trip, but mainly kept it low-key, staying with other volunteers, and spending lots of time here at my site. Although we didn't go on any grand adventures here, I realize that it was still a “grand adventure” for him - which is all that matters. He says that he could do the Peace Corps life, but would never have any desire to do so, which is understandable . . . its not a life for everyone.

Having all of these visitors has truly helped my 2 years fly by. When you sign up for Peace Corps, you think about how long 2 years is, and while there have definitely been instances where it seems like time is draggggggging by, in hindsight, it has not been a long time at all.
I named this blog “living in the moments…” because that is exactly what life is here. It is all about the moments. Good and the bad, taxing and stressful, blissful and joyous. . . you get the picture.

The other evening, while I was watching the USA win against Ghana (GO USA!!!) my wallet was stolen, including my phone and all of my money (about 100 USD) so that was a truly unfortunate incident. But earlier that day, the testing center in town was opened, and has been running smoothly every day this week! We have already tested 35 people in the 3 days that it has been open- already a higher number than those that have been tested at the hospital in the same timeframe. Like I said, the bad with the good.

I am at Acomuza for the morning, and then will be heading to the hospital in the afternoon. Tomorrow is Cha Positivo, the monthly support group meeting at the hospital for HIV+ people. Afterwards I am traveling to the Xai Xai area for a work meeting from Thursday to Sunday. We will be finishing up the GAAC Toolkit that was started at my close of service conference back in April. Exciting times!

Until I am able to buy a new smartphone with an international sim card slot (if anyone has one stateside, please let me know, and I’d be happy to purchase one), I am working with a simple Nokia phone that calls/texts but has no internet. My number has changed as well for the time being +258 84 398 5044.

Xo’s to all


Tuesday, June 3, 2014

tuesday's gone, with the wind.

Hello everyone, and happy Tuesday!
Yesterday was not the best of days for me, I was hit by some horrible stomach bug (again) and spent most of my day in bed or my bathroom. Yuck. Today I am feeling better, a little worse for the wear, but that's life in Moz for ya. Some days excellent, the next, you just cant seem to get away from your pit latrine.

So… last week was a good one, quite busy finishing up the last bits of REDES Workshop logistical things, a visit from the CCS Maputo team to our hospital here, the weekly meeting with my community organization Acomuza etc. . .life is back to normal here in Quissico, and I couldn't be happier about it.
Some of the things that I am working on this week are; promotion of a new and exciting tool called the Living Library. Its an online resource for PCV’s in Mozambique. It is created and curated for and by PCV’s and has a wide variety of subjects. It offers information and a focal point or “subject specialist” for each informational topic. It is still a work in progress, but with more promotion and involvement of others I think it could be a great success and incredible toolkit for current in-country volunteers.

The new REDES leadership is being voted in this week, and we should have an announcement by this weekend as to who the new representatives are going to be! Always exciting to know that the project is moving forward, and that it is being passed off into good hands. The actual handover will be taking place in Nampula City (like it did last year) and I have been invited to go because I am a Southern Coordinator, and because of my involvement with the registration and legalization process that happened in April. I am excited about participating in the handover, but that is one more weekend out of site, when I have so few left. . . its tough.

In addition to that, I am trying desperately to get the training project for the Acomuza members completed. If you remember, a few weeks back, I planned and organized a 2 week training for 6 volunteers from my community organization here at the hospital. During this training, the 6 volunteers were trained to give HIV testing and consults. From this training we want to open the testing center that is in town, to help increase the number of people being tested. The training went well, I even made certificates for everyone, and emailed them to one of my counterparts here at the hospital…. Unfortunately since the conclusion of the training, my counterpart has practically disappeared. He is working out in the field for CCS, which is understandable, but almost a month has passed now, and my Acomuza volunteers are without certificates, and the testing center has still not been opened. It is frustrating, and I am doing what I can to try and make it happen – but there are only so many texts and calls and general persistence one can do. It would be very sad to see this all work fall apart.

This past weekend I spent my time here at site. It was nice to relax with my friends, in my house, with my dog and the puppies (who are growing at an alarming rate). I started going through my clothes and some household things to give away and started thinking about what I am going to take with me to Quelimane. Sunday was Children’s Day here in Mozambique, so my Tia Thelma (my neighbor who moved to the other side of town) came over, and we made cakes for her daughters. It was a great time hanging out with her, baking cake, drinking tea, and watching a movie (in Portuguese of course), all the while knowing that the cakes were going to two of my favorite people in Quissico. Couldn't have asked for a better day.

Unfortunately yesterday I was hit by who knows what, and spent most of the day in bed. However, I used that opportunity to catch up on some media that came with a great review -Wolf of Wall Street. It was possibly the longest movie I have watched in a long time. While it was absolutely excellent, for those of you who know me, you know that I just cant sit through a movie, let alone a 3 hour one. So I was constantly pausing it, to make tea or to play with the puppies – but I did finally make it through!
how could you not want to play with those fuzzies! 

Today I am at the hospital, working with CCS on some things regarding Acomuza, and organizing various other things, like the GAAC Toolkit (we have a rough draft done!) oh, and getting my life together.

I have 5 weekends remaining in Quissico, and for 2 of them I will be away traveling for work. I
t's slightly depressing and overwhelming to know that my time in this amazing spot is coming to such a quick close. Knowing that I will never again live in my little grass shack, or be in this place of my life again. Wild. Its an interesting feeling to be sure, 2 years gone in what feels like the blink of an eye.

Speaking of, as of last week, I have officially been in Mozambique for 2 years! Wooo!