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Quelimane, Zambezia Province, Mozambique
A small look into what my personal experiences in Mozambique are like. Written as a stream of consciousness, these are my thoughts, my successes and my failures. Life is all about the moments that we live in. I hope that the moment you take out of your life to read this blog is a positive one. The views and opinions in this blog are my own and do not reflect those of the U.S. Government or U.S. Peace Corps.

Tuesday, December 31, 2013

feliz novo ano

Happy Holiday season (continued)
I hope that everyone had a safe, and joyous Christmas, a nice start to Hanukkah and Kwanza and something fun planned for New Years Eve!

I journeyed about 3.5 hours north of my site to a remote town called Cumbana Agricola, a very “matu” (in the bush) site about a 5km walk off of the EN1. I had some friends stay at my house the night before to break up their travel time, so we all awoke on the 24th, had some French toast and coffee, then hit the road – stopping in Maxixe to buy provisions like water, food, booze etc. this was a BYOeverything kind of event, so we wanted to be prepared.

We all hopped in a chapa (there were enough of us that we just ended up renting it out) that took us to the turnoff to the town. From there a friend of our fellow PCV who had a car to take us right to his house met us! Talk about the importance of ‘knowing a guy’ haha that walk would have been a killer with all of our luggage, food and water.

Our friends house is no bigger than mine, but a big difference is that he doesn't have energy any of the time, his neighbors have a small generator, so they can have a few lightbulbs at night, but my friend relies on solar panels and such to charge his computer and cell phone. It made me think about how fortunate I’ve been in this experience to have energy the entire time. Yes it isn’t always reliable, especially during the hot season, but I do have it a majority of the time, which allows for my refrigerator, electric kettle, and my computer to function. What can I say, I’m spoiled haha!
But back to the Christmas celebrations. . . words cannot describe the beauty that lay before us at Cumbana Agricola. . . I have a spectacular view of the lagoon and ocean at my site, but my friend can see the ocean from his front porch. Its about a 30 minute walk down to the beach, and you will not encounter a single soul on the walk or on the beach. Beautiful clear blue water, fun waves to play in, and lots of wood nearby so we could build a very big bonfire. Not a shabby way to spend Christmas if you ask me.

The stars at this place were incredible. . . now, I’ve seen some amazing stars here in Mozambique, and in South Africa – but being this far removed from any sort of power source, city, etc. . . .it was humbling just how beautiful the night sky was. There was even a full moon the one evening, so we had our own natural light on the walk back from the beach. I used a friends “bug hut” (a mesh tent with no rain-fly) to camp, so I had a perfect view of the stars and moon when I went to bed each night.
We spent a few days there, just soaking in the sun and surf, enjoying spending time with one another. There was a Yankee Swap for gifts, lots of good food (all cooked on an open fire) and plenty of wine to go around - all in all, a very different, but very fun Christmastime celebration.

I traveled to Inhambane City on my return south, and spent a day or two there before coming back to site. Its nice to be home, but there isn’t much to do here really . . . everyone is traveling for the holidays and its raining a good bit (welcome back rainy season!). I remember last year at this time being here at my house with my Mom – still a bit new at this Peace Corps thing, so exploring town was equally as fun for her as it was for me. If only she could see me now, my house finally a home, I have good friends and family in town, and I finally feel that I have a grasp on this crazy life here in Mozambique.
I’ll be spending New Years Eve with Dona Julia and family, like last year – and I believe that my sitemates will be joining me in the festivities. I am really looking forward to it, and will be baking lots of goodies today to take with me to the party. I’m thinking and apple crisp, maybe some sugar cookies, and a banana crumble? Thoughts or suggestions are welcome!

Oh, one last thing-  and I hate to leave a post with a sad note . . but. . . Lua had her puppies while I was gone. Apparently there were only three of them, and all were stillborn. I discovered their bodies buried in my front yard when I came home. Lua is now much skinnier, and I think is going through a doggy version of depression. She sleeps a lot of the time, and really doesn't like to be very far from my side. She hasn't been eating much, which worries me. . .so I’m keeping a close eye on her, giving lots of hugs and smoochies, and hoping for the best.

Tomorrow is New Years Eve, not my favorite holiday by any means, but here in Mozambique I’ve had a nice time of it, and am hoping for a good year as well. This new year will bring a lot of changes to my life, the end of my Peace Corps adventure, hopefully the start of graduate school, and all sorts of new adventures to come. I appreciate all you faithful blog readers for sticking with me through this experience, and hope that you are enjoying it as much as I am!

A big bear hug, and sloppy smooch from Lua and I for your midnight countdown this year! I’ll be there next year with my party hat on to celebrate!

Boas Entradas! Happy New Year! Feliz Novo Ano!

-t


Sunday, December 22, 2013

snow? or sand and sun

Hello everyone!
So its been a fun few days here in Mozambique, I have been traveling, taking advantage of the lagoon here at site, and spending time with my new sitemates!
As I wrote in my last blog post, I had plans to travel to the northern part of Inhambane Province to see two friends who live there.  The first stop I made was Mabote, an inland town about 3 hours off of the EN1. It was a dirt road to get there, full of potholes, cows, and dense vegetation on either side of it- a cool experience heading out to the “bush”. The town itself wasn't too different from my home here, something I have discovered here – EVERY town looks the same, its just the surrounding area that may be a bit different. I loved my friends house, she lives in a canico (reed) house, just like mine, but it is circular and has a thatch roof. She has made the small space so homey, and it is so wonderful that we enjoyed just lounging around on a very hot day together.
I enjoy going to new towns/seeing new places, but as I said, all towns kind of look the same – so what I am really doing on these trips is going to see my friends.
I spent two nice days with my friend in Mabote, and then headed back out to the EN1 to hitchhike up to the verrrrry top of Inhambane Province, where I had to head east from the national road towards the coast to get to my other friends town. Again, the town was very similar, just the terrain a bit different, less palm trees, less vegetation, many more goats.  On this part of my travel I was able to meet some new volunteers, and spend time with some old friends. It was a lovely sleepover that lasted an extra day because of some torrential downpours – travel in this country isn’t all that fun when the roads are flooded.
I think it is safe to say that I have now seen most of Inhambane Province the interior, and the coast.
For Christmas, I am going to another friends site – a private beach about a 45 minute walk off of the EN1 (no paved road for cars to enter). So I will be without energy/cell reception etc for the holiday. I think there will be about 15 people in attendance, it’ll be a camping adventure in the bush, on a private beach – a classic Peace Corps experience.  New Years Eve I will be here at site, spending the holiday with Dona Julia’s family, just like last year. Looking forward to each day, and time spent with friends who have become family.
Like last year, it just doesn't feel like the “holiday season”. There are no carol’s in the air, no snow, no decorations anywhere – but unlike last year, I’m not really bothered by it. I remember feeling a bit sad/lonely about missing holiday traditions at home, but (and this may be cynical) here, its honestly just another day. . . I am going to enjoy the time spent with other volunteers, and the beautiful beach, but it wont feel like Christmas- just another trip to a great beach. TOUGH life right? I am not trying to convey any ill will or bad attitude, just sort of a ‘shoulder shrug’ towards the traditional western holiday season here.
I am on leave from work until January 6th, so after Christmas with my friends, I’m going to go to Tofo beach for a day or two, then will be back here at site for New Years Eve. Like I stated previously, I have been taking advantage of my days off to travel, go to the lagoon often, get my workout on, and hang out with my new sitemates.
Yesterday the three of us ventured up to Inharrime so I could introduce them to the modista (seamstress), find them some wicker furniture like I have at my house, and so they could get a grill made. Such men, wanting to kill chickens and grill meat (beats chest). Just kidding. . . kind of. They are great guys, I truly lucked out in the sitemate selection.
So, once I get back to work in January, I’ll have about 6/7 months left. . .where the time has gone, I really have no idea. Grad school applications have all been received, I have confirmation emails from each school, and hopefully I will be notified of decisions in 3-6weeks.
HoHoHo, be merry, be peace, be love.

t

Friday, December 20, 2013

a few days late

(this blog was written last week.. sorry!)

Good Morning!
I apologize for the lack of posts recently, its not that I’ve been incredibly busy, its that there isn’t much to report from here in Moz.
At home I’m sure everyone is decking out their houses for the respective holidays, enjoying time with friends and family, being cold and miserable about the snow (don't! I would love to see snow) – have a hot chocolate for me! Here, its getting to be very very hot, and the rainy season is almost upon us. I woke this morning to veryyy dark clouds, Mom- you remember what it was like here in rainy season – everything shuts down when it's a downpour, my house floods a bit, and everyone just hangs at their houses. So that's what I’m doing this morning, I have some coffee in my french press, some oatmeal on the stove, and Lua sleeping at my feet. Not a bad Friday morning if you ask me.
Sooo . . . to recap what has been going on here in Quissico – the biggest event happened last week Friday – I received two Peace Corps sitemates! Yayy! They are two great guys who will be teaching at the local secondary school. Their house is about a half hour walk from mine, which is nice because I can keep my own identity here with my friends/family, but still have the option of going for an afternoon beer with friends. Their house is supahhhhh nice, cement, lots of space, great open windows for the light, a beautiful kitchen etc. makes my house look like the little grass shack that it is haha! But I wouldn't trade my little casa for anything else. This is perfect for me – I cant believe I’m going to have to say goodbye at some point.
Now that December has hit, many people have gone off for the holiday, work has stopped at ACOMUZA and Despertai until January 6th, and next week is the last week for CCS at the hospital. But honestly, there isn’t much for me to do there right now, so this weekend I have some travel plans! I have two great friends that live in the northern part of Inhambane Province, in the towns of Mabote, and Nova Mabone. These places are probably 10 or more hours from Qissico. -Literally from the bottom of the province to the top. My two friends always pass through my site, and have stayed with me numerous times, and yet I have never returned the favor, so this weekend – I’m going to the MATU! They both live off the EN1 in these small communities out in the bush. I’m looking forward to spending time with them, seeing their houses, and their communities. Speaking of. . . I should probably pack haha! I’m going to sleep the night in Maxixe at a friends house, 2 hours north of me, because her organization has a car going to the northern part of Inhambane, and I plan to be in it. The neighbors have agreed to feed Lua while I am gone so I’m not concerned about her.
Last weekend I showed the boys and Naira the lagoon, we packed some snacks, Kevin brought his lacrosse sticks, we had music . . .what more is there to ask for? The remainder of the weekend was chill, I tried to help out the boys, showing them where to find things in town, helping them set up their house etc. .  And now it is Friday already?! This week passed by rather quickly . . I wonder if time will start passing even faster now. I have between 6 and 7 months left in my contract. Wild.
December is going to be filled with this travel, and then something nice for Christmas. New years eve I will be here at site with Tia Julia and family, like last year. Looking forward to her excellent cooking, and just hanging out with great friends. What does everyone else have planned for the holidays? I’d love to know!

Your friend in Moz - tay

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

a quote

I am never quite sure how to start blog posts. So this time around- I’m going to start with a quote.
“All our dreams can come true- if
we have the courage to pursue them”
~Walt Disney

I interpret this as, if a person has enough gumption to do something out of the ordinary (like move to an African country for two years) anything is possible. I found this quote stuck with me because of my recent applications for graduate school. I’m not a prime candidate for some of the programs I applied for – I have no research experience, and Peace Corps has been my first real ‘job’ aside from the numerous part-time ones I worked in the states.  I have received confirmation emails from Pitt, Boston, Hopkins and Maryland that my application was delivered, and currently under review.

I find myself growing more and more restless here in Quissico as the days go on. I remember having similar feelings before leaving the states for Peace Corps- sort of an “itch” to start something new. Maybe my attention span is only good for a year and a half until I’m ready for the next adventure. It’s not that I don't love it here, because I still very much do- not only is it geographically stunning, the people are wonderful, I have great neighbors, a cool house, and a funny-looking dog … what’s not to love? It’s just that life here is starting to feel so routine. . nothing really is new. I go to work, and then I come home. Womp.
-       I don't know if this change in perception is because I was briefly home, and realized just how many things there are to do in the states compared to here – or if I’ve just exhausted the possibilities here in Quissico.

Work at Acomuza continues to go along smoothly. I have some plans with a few coworkers to start a medicinal plant garden right in the front of our property. We can then use the plants to create holistic remedies, like dried moringa powder, to give to our clients – or possibly even sell in the market as an income generation project. As the holiday season approaches, people will be going on break starting next Friday the 13th and not coming back until the 5th of January or so.

The relationship I formed between CCS (my organization at the hospital) and Acomuza continues to go well. We have started passing out the “busca cards” which are basic information cards of people who have abandoned treatment, and with these cards the activists here go out into the field and try to find these people and encourage a return to the hospital. We have also been quite successful in the creation of GAAC groups, support groups of 6 persons or less, for people living with HIV/Aids. These groups help divide the work and cost of a hospital trip to receive ARV medication. It also creates a basic form of responsibility for patients, keeping them accountable to their group members to take their medication, and go to the hospital when it is their assigned turn. It is a great program, that I personally hope gains more traction here in my community, and nationwide.

My new site-mates come this Friday, so I’m excited about that. I am still not sure where exactly they are living, but it’ll be nice having some Americans close by – rather than the hour to two hours as it is now.
I have decided that Lua is indeed pregnant. Sigh . . . . I tried so hard to give the “birds and the bees” talk, and keep it from happening, but nature ran its course I suppose. I’m going to estimate a due date of late January. Babies. . . ugh. Hopefully I can find a good home for each of them, either to other volunteers, or friends/family here in Quissico. The time will come to do the same for Lua, looking at costs for bringing an animal home – they are outrageous! So she will stay here in sunny Mozambique, hopefully with someone who loves her equally as much.

Not too much more to report. Life is dull, and I’m not entirely happy with a lot of things these days… trying to keep my head up through it all, and just know that with life (wherever you are) there are “peaks and pits” right now, I’m just in a rut. It’ll get better soon.

Thank you to all who sent thanksgiving wishes and good words – I really appreciated them! I was able to chat with my family a bit on turkey day, which is always a treat.

X’s and O’s


t

Tuesday, November 26, 2013

gobble gobble

A great big sigh of relief, my dad’s second surgery went very well, and he is home from the hospital. Now we are just waiting for the biopsy results from the removed thyroid, and all should be well.

In light of these recent health problems, occurring in my immediate family, I have personally started a Peace Corps version of a “wellness program” here in Mozambique.  What does this entail you ask? Well . . . it means a few things. Firstly, I have cut way back on my alcohol intake, what is the point of poisoning my body with nasty tasting alcohol? Its not even good beer, so why drink it? Secondly, I have started a daily workout routine. Yes, I was working out before, but not in this type of organized fashion. I now have an organized schedule, and I follow it the best that I can. Thirdly, I have become very aware of the food I am putting into my body, and have tried to make it the so I am only eating the healthiest, most nutritious food I can. Oatmeal and moringa for breakfast, usually a fruit smoothie for lunch (banana, papaya, mango, yogurt, coconut milk, and moringa) and some sort of stir-fry or hearty bean stew for dinner. I have also started incorporating morning meditation into my daily routine. Giving myself a few moments every morning where I let my feelings become visitors – they come and go, and I let myself sink deeper into another level of consciousness.
Through this process my body has started to feel exceptionally better, which is good – the heart problems my father suffers from are genetic. Whatever I can do to help prevent or stall this outcome is what I will do.

I have recently finished a few books; Secret Daughter- Shilpi Somaya Gowda, Jurassic Park- Michael Crichton, World War Z – Max Brooks, The Concubine’s Daughter – Pai Kit Fai, The Autobiography of Macom X – Malcom X.
And many others. . . I have some down time in the evenings here. I suggest you all get out and read, its good for the soul. –then report back about what books you liked! I’m always on the lookout for the next good read.

Another personal victory; all of my graduate school applications have been submitted. Yes that's right kiddos. . .this girl is trying to become a grownup. Wild. I have applications in to Johns Hopkins, Emory, Maryland, Pittsburgh, and Boston. All for a masters of public health program, most with a concentration in behavioral and community health. Keep your fingers, toes, and whatever other extremities that can be crossed, crossed. I need all the luck I can get.  

Work continues along. . . I don't want to say we are wrapping up for the year. . but we are wrapping up for the year. Break starts on December 15th, and everyone is just getting things in order before we go away for the holidays. I have a few things going on right now with CCS and Acomuza, REDES has been put on hold until school starts up again next year, and I am desperately seeking a new counterpart. Other than that, work is work. Same stuff, different day- which is fine . . . I just hate feeling like I'm getting complacent. Which is why I have been brainstorming with a few counterparts for some new project ideas. I think we have a few winners! 

This week is Thanksgiving – what is everyone thankful for?
I am thankful that my dad is healthy.
I’m thankful that my family and friends are healthy, happy, and are still very supportive of my life decisions.
I am thankful that I have a beautiful life here in Mozambique, which has introduced me to so many incredible people, Mozambican and others.
I am thankful for real coffee.
I am thankful for you, the faithful blog readers, that make this silly website meaningful.
I am thankful for this life, which has led me on some incredible journeys so far, and I cant wait to see where it takes me.


Give Thanks. Give Love.      – Happy Thanksgiving, from your friend in Mozambique

Monday, November 18, 2013

election week

Hello and happy Monday to all! 
Sorry about my last blog post, I am chalking it up as just a bad week, getting over being sick, and a lot of big life changes here in Moz. Overall, my experience here (while at some moments, truly devastating) has been life-changing and amazing. I love my life here, especially in Quissico, and wouldn't trade these past years for anything.
That being said, I had a wonderful weekend, spent with two close friends. Nothing spectacular, just hanging out, enjoying time together, trips to the market, cooking great food together, and funny movies. What else does one need?
This week in Mozambique it is elections. The big day to be held on Wednesday, the 20th. . . I know I have posted a few articles on my facebook page about the current political climate, and will post a few links at the end of this post, if anyone cares to take a look at some news articles. The best information I find is online at “@Verdade” a main Mozambican news journal. Basically, the opposition party, RENAMO, has cut off the central part of Mozambique, forcing nearly all transportation to come to a halt, burning busses, raiding military posts, unnecessary killings etc.  They have recently demanded that the election be cancelled, and have begun to dig a huge crater in the road to prevent any transportation.
Here in my town, it is all FRELIMO support, I have never seen a RENAMO flag, t-shirt, hat etc. . . just the eruption of FRELIMO support in this past month, growing as the election day comes. They have songs, dances, cars with flags hanging off of them, posters everywhere. It's a lot. Imagine a US political rally, now put it on steroids, and make it last for a month. One of the frustrating things with all of this, is much like in the states, people have noooo idea what they are voting for/supporting. They just jump on the bandwagon, without question, and put their blind support into whatever it is the masses are doing. It's a chance to win a free t-shirt, or a flag, or whatever. . . but without concern about what they are actually supporting.
Most of the news I have read, and seen on TV has shown that the people of Mozambique don't want another war to break out, issues like this are between the two male-driven, political parties. It's a “dick wagging” contest to be honest. Who’s is bigger, who can get more power, who can be the wealthiest -Without any regard to those lives that are affected. TV intervies I have seen of local people in the central, when asked if they want a war, or where their support lies, they say they have none, and just want their lives to continue normally. Although they have no particular political affiliation, this matter is still highly personal, and you can sense the weariness and anxiety about the whole thing- this is their country, their history rearing its ugly head – they are concerned that the world is going to judge them based on the acts of few. This country has already been through so much, a revolutionary war, then a civil war – the last thing they need, is this nonsense.

Switching to happier news-
I am getting sitemates! After a year and a half of being the only American in Quissico, we are about to receive two more! They will be teachers at the secondary school here, not sure what subjects, or where they will be living. . .but come December 6th, we will have two more “mulungu’s” here in town. Wild. I have been in correspondence with them through some emails, and they seem like lovely gentlemen – who lucked out to have such a cool site! Seriously, Quissico is one of the best places I’ve been in this country, and couldn't imagine being placed anywhere else.
            -I have not forgotten Naira, she is a lovely girl, who I am very happy to know, however she is German, so there are still cultural barriers there - ones that we enjoy talking about and exploring throughout the days, so I don't mean to discount her by any means, but it will be interesting to have people from my own culture so close by.

I had my site visit from my APCD (assistant peace corps director) this past Friday. It was a nice day, was at the hospital for a bit, went to Acomuza, then down to Despertai, had smoothies for lunch at my house, went and explored town, caught up on the gossip with Dona Julia, and made a nice dinner for us all here at my house. . . oh wait, that's my everyday life here. Haha either way, I think it was nice for Rachel, my boss, to see me in action. She had great words of support, and it was nice spending time with her one-on-one.
Applications are almost done for graduate school, I have some people looking over my statement of purpose, letters of recommendation are being turned in, my resume has been updated, transcripts sent in, and the GRE’s taken… this is actually happening.  Wow.
Plan b – if I don't get into graduate school, I have been doing a lot of research on Ashram’s in India. I want to study yoga at the feet of a Guru that could lead me to higher clarity, a deeper spirituality, and a greater understanding of life.
“it is health that is the real wealth, and not pieces of gold and silver” – Mahatma Gandhi
lua's new favorite spot in the house. . . spoiled girl

Some sites to catch up on the on-going's in Moz.

http://www.averdade.org/

http://www.aljazeera.com/Services/Search/?q=Mozambique


Thursday, November 14, 2013

a goodbye, and some ramblings

I have many things I wish to write about, and the funny thing is, not much has really happened here in Moz to report.

Firstly, I would like to dedicate a moment or two to my friend, coworker, and wonderful person Nelson Magul, who passed away last week. I know I mentioned him in a previous post, but I would like to bring to light the reality of this loss. It is not often that you meet a younger individual in this country that is educated, dedicated, motivated, and an all around –good person. He was one of the good ones for sure, and was making a tangible difference here in my town. I enjoyed working with him from the moment we met, he was dedicated, responsive to suggestions, and kept me both busy and informed here at the hospital- something that I had been lacking a great deal since coming to site over a year ago. For him to die so tragically and suddenly, with so much life left, and things to do, is a great shock. Our team here at the hospital has suffered a great loss, we have lost a friend, and until today did I realize just how much he will be missed.
            -We had our monthly HIV+ support group today, and I don't know if it was the prayer said in the local language, the song dedicated to him, or the look on everyone’s face when the tragedy was announced, but I finally have accepted the loss, and am allowing myself to be truly saddened by this occurrence.

Secondly, I don't know if its “senioritis” kicking in, or if I’m sick of my role at the hospital changing, or because work is slowing down for the year. . .but I’m kind of “over it” here. It could just be a bad week, or a bummed out day, or the fact that the GRE is over and I’m not stressed as much anymore. But yesterday afternoon I was sitting on my porch, after a very productive morning of work, with nothing really to do – and didn't enjoy it. Naira is in South Africa organizing her visa, my friend Artur moved to a different town further south, Fernanda is in Maputo, my closest neighbors are either MIA from the peace corps scene, have ET’d or are in the capital city with their girlfriends, and even my neighbors have gone for the holidays. So its literally just Lua and I in the evenings now.
I successfully watched all of season 5 of Sons of Anarchy (someone want to send me season 6?) cooked a big pot of split pea soup, make my smoothies every day, cleaned etc. I had NOTHING to do. So I sat and watched the sunset, which usually brings me a lot of enjoyment. While the sunset was stunning, as per usual, I didn't feel a connection to it – to my life here. I’m on the downward slope of my service, only left with about 7 months to go. I’m getting a new sitemate next month here in Quissico, who will be in the Education sector of the Peace Corps program. This is very exciting, and I am thrilled for someone to experience the beauty of Quissico – but I feel that personally I’ve “done it all” here.
-suggestions for things to do around town/with my free time are welcome.

Thirdly, work is actually going very well. With my new counterpart here at the hospital we are doing some great stuff. Getting GACC groups started, the relationship I have created between the hospital and my community organization, ACOMUZA is going really well, we are preparing for “DIA 1” – world HIV/Aids day here (December 1st), etc. its going great- what any seasoned volunteer could hope for. Even my work with the REDES project is going well. While my groups have stopped meeting for the year, until the girls come back to Quissico/restart school next year, the program of getting REDES legalized into a separate organization continues on. Which is a really great thing.

I have run out of internet credit. Still have much more to write. So I will post this now, and post the remainder at a later time.

Hugs


t

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

what a small world.

It has been a busy busy few weeks here in Mozambique. Where I last left off was just getting back from my trans-Atlantic travels to Americaland. Re-assimilating back into life here in Moz etc. . . I had the pleasure of hosting two lovely women from the Peace Corps Zambia program, who had just finished their two years of service. I met the one woman when I was traveling in Zambia with my dad, back in June, her and I exchanged emails, and it all worked out that her and her friend were able to come play in Quissico! How great right? It was a lovely few days spent with them, I have such a fantastic site, and such lovely people live here – every chance I have to show it off I do! We cooked some great food, had some drinks, and really fantastic conversation. Its very interesting to hear about different peace corps experiences- while we all have similar/a consistent underlying theme of pit latrines, local housing etc, the programs are drastically different. So the time spent with them provided great insight into life in Zambia.

This past weekend, I traveled up to Tofo beach, for a Halloween/going away party for the 17er’s (the education group that is leaving country) which was very fun, I camped out on the beach, had lots of fun with people I hadn’t seen in months and just enjoyed the beach. Want to hear something totally crazy? The two ladies that stayed with me the week prior went to Maputo where they met some Peace Corps from Botswana who were staying in the same hostel there – they told them about the party in Tofo beach, so PC Botswana traveled up to the beach to see what we, as PC Moz have to offer by the way of fun. Wouldn't ya know it- one of the volunteers is actually from Pittsburgh, PA, and went to Keystone Oaks High School… graduate a year ahead of me. WHAT ARE THE ODDS? Totally wild and crazy that I would run into someone from high school, on a beach, in Mozambique, while we are both serving in Peace Corps. WILD. Sometimes you just have to smile at the silliness that life throws at you.

Sunday morning at 4am, some vol’s and I hopped a bus heading south, I stopped in Chidenguele (Yuri’s site) to drop my stuff, bathe, and prep for our incoming site visitors. He and I then traveled to Xai Xai to meet the new Trainee’s, had lunch in town, and then popped back up to Chidenguele. 

Remember back in July how I hosted two visitors- during pre-service training we all go to see a current PCV’s site, to see how life is, what work is like etc. .  this time around, I am hosting volunteers that will be in the education sector, so I thought that it would be more advantageous for them to see Yuri’s site, considering that he is a professor. We stayed the night at his home, so they could see how a professor lives, and in the morning we walked around his school, giving the trainees an opportunity to ask questions and see what sort of work environment they are in store for.

That afternoon I traveled back to Quissico with my two trainees, lovely ladies who I have truly enjoyed having stay with me. That afternoon we didn’t do too much, just kind of relaxed a bit, went and saw the town/the overlook of the lagoons and had some beers with the setting sun. Not a bad way to unwind from what has been a crazy few days. Yesterday I took them around town, to the hospital, to my one community based organization, and back through town. It is starting to get veryyyyy hot here, so the hot hours were spent here at home on the porch/in my house trying to ‘beat the heat’. In the afternoon we went to check out my local school here, chatted with the director a bit, and saw the mural that we painted with my REDES group. Ended the day with a beer in the local bar, and a great big stir fry dinner.

Oh yes! Some of the good things we have had to eat in the past few days- lunch in xai xai was Indian food, that evening we made fajitas at Yuri’s house, then an egg scramble for breakfast the next morning, fresh fruit smoothies for lunch, a great lentil mixture for dinner, french toast for breakfast, smoothies again, last night I made a great stir fry, somewhere in there we also made some hummus for later today, and some banana bread. Today we started our day with banana cinnamon pancakes, and have a full day planned of visiting my other community organization, and maybe heading down to the lagoon. Yuri and his trainees are going to come up to Quissico this morning, so that way they can see how a health volunteer lives, and see the health system.

So all in all, it has been a veryyyy busy few weeks, lots of people in and out of my little hut here. I take the GRE this Saturday, so I am heading down to Maputo on Thursday morning, to spend the day Friday at the office doing a final review/prep. This will also give me an opportunity to see some 17ers that are getting on a plane home this coming weekend. Officially making Moz 18, my group, the crusty old PCV’s in country. Wild. I feel like I was just in training. And now here I am, showing the newbie’s the ropes of life here in moz. Wildddddd.

On a very sad note, my counterpart with CCS (the organization at the hospital) was killed in a car accident on Monday morning. He was returning from Maputo, after spending the weekend there with his girlfriend and family. He traveled down there last Thursday to buy a car that he had been saving up for, for months – and on his return trip, a sleepy semi-truck driver, drove him off the road, killing him instantly. I’m very saddened by this news, he was such a fantastic person, very motivated and driven, a real ‘go-getter’ – which is kind of rare to find here in Moz (sad to say)… so this is a very hard thing to deal with. In addition to the fact that I finally had a counterpart who I was getting work done with. You all remember all the issues I had when ICAP was here- and how many times my role at the hospital has changed… I thought that with Nelson my work was set, and I had found a great project. Now it’s going to change again, and with only 7 months to go, its just frustrating. Transportation in this country is so dangerous. And when it hits so close to home like this, makes it even scarier.

Sorry to leave off on such a sad note. . . but it happens here in Moz. Life is fragile. We all kind of just do our best to get by.  On the plus side, it is absolutely beautiful here today, and I have finally found some time to write out a blog post for “yinz guys”.

Big x and o always

tay


Thursday, October 31, 2013

a shout out

some of you may know my best friend from birth- dave weiland. a fantastic man, who serves in the us navy, and is an avid runner. i got this email from him, and wanted to share! just another great person, trying to do some good in the world. think positive. do good. pass it on.

Family and Friends,

Two years ago, I committed myself to a new sport: running.  Along with this sport came the urge to do something greater than just go out and pound pavement.  I looked to my Aunt Nancy, who struggles day to day with Multiple Sclerosis (MS) as a way to fuel my endurance endeavor.  From my first race on, I decided that every mile would be dedicated and fueled by her endless spirit and passion for life.  As a tribute, I have "run to support MS" at over 20 races and events, attempting to raise funds and awareness for this affliction.

Today I am writing you regarding my effort to raise much needed funds for the National MS Society.  I have committed to running the 2014 Pittsburgh Marathon for the National MS Society and along with it, dedicated myself to raising $1000!  

For those of you who are unaware of what MS is, it is a chronic, often disabling disease that attacks the central nervous system (CNS), which is made up of the brain, spinal cord, and optic nerves. Symptoms may be mild, such as numbness in the limbs, or severe, such as paralysis or loss of vision. MS can affect a person’s health in hundreds of ways.  Currently there are eight disease modifying treatments available; however, there are more promising therapies in development right now than at any other time in history. While there has been astounding progress, the ultimate goal is to find treatments that not only modify the disease, but stop it in its tracks. My Run to Stop MS fundraising will support the next generation of treatments!  

I ask you to please consider donating to my cause!  By clicking this link you can assist me in meeting my goal of $1000.  Please feel free to share this email with others (i.e. family, friends, co-workers); every dollar donated puts me one step closer to my goal of kicking some serious MS butt!

Because those with MS have issues with balance and walking, they can rarely run.  I have chosen to run in their stead, in their honor, and in their spirit. Your support means the world to me! With your generous donation, you will assist me in Running to Stop MS!  

With respect and love,

Dave Weiland



dave getting his run on!!

dave and aunt nancy




MISS AND LOVE YOU BOTH.

dave- i am so so proud of what you have done, what you are doing, and what you will do in the future.

xoxo all 

Friday, October 25, 2013

what's in a word?

As many of you may know, I am scheduled to take the GRE on November 9th in the capital city of Maputo here in Mozambique. This test, and its results are necessary to be admitted to graduate school – preferably with a good score.

So, with that said, I would like to take this opportunity to expand your minds a bit with some of the great vocabulary words I have been studying up on, and relate them to life here in Moz. – a small study trick I’ve been using.

Aberrant: abnormal, different from the accepted norm
            -how it relates to life here? I am the aberrant one. Everything about me, and the way I do things is different from the “norm” here in Moz, and vice versa.
Cacophony: a disagreeable, harsh or discordant sound or tone.
-every morning when my neighbors blast insanely loud music. Note- “morning” being 4am.
Ennui: boredom
            -something every volunteer struggles with at one point or another
Grandiloquent: pompous, bombastic.
            -all men in Mozambique, especially those in positions of power
Impecunious: having no money, broke
            -all peace corps volunteers, especially at the end of the month
Precocious: mature at a young age.
            -every child here in Mozambique. I literally saw a 3 year old using a huge knife to cut tomatoes yesterday.
Soporific: causing sleep
            -hot season. The temperature today reached 110F, and its not even “hot season” yet. Yikes

the list could really go on. . but I think you all have the general idea. Haha I really need to get some of this math “lingo” down for the test. But honestly who uses the quadratic formula on a daily basis? Not this girl.

Oh, and another funny thing about words – only today, after over a year and half living in Mozambique, did I learn the verb “to hate”. It’s odiar (similar to odious; hateful). How neat is that… I haven’t had to use the word hate, or the phrase “I hate” yet here in my life. Interesting, right? Just goes to show, that I must not “hate” many things about life here.

Also- made chocolate chip cookies with Dona Julia yesterday, from one of the Betty Crocker mixes that you can get at the grocery store (just add butter and water) OMG was it awesome! So please, if anyone wants to send me a care package solely of these cookie mixes (and pretzels) I’d be perfectly ok with that. Haha! I knewwww I should have brought more back. They would be perfect for the holiday season.


Dad update- he’s doing well! Talked with him quickly last night, and all doctors/nurses have given him a big “thumbs up” for his recovery! Yayyy!

Thursday, October 24, 2013

interior decorating, moz style

quick update-

sadly, one of my good friends Julia has decided to ET (not phoning home) but going home - early termination. it is a sad day, and she will be missed for sure here - but if this experience doesn't make you happy a majority of the time, then it is not worth the stress and time away from family/friends/life in the states.

when i was home, i constantly missed moz, and now that i am back it feels great. i'm working on and sending in all applications to graduate schools - the final list is as follows; boston, pitt, maryland, hopkins, and emory. i feel its a good mixture of schools, with similar programs but different things to offer. but if things dont work out with schools, i am back to considering a 3rd year... yeah yeah yeah, i know ive said this before hahaha, i suppose it just never really left - and now that i see that home is exactly as i left it  (with some minor changes in friends lives) i realize just how happy i am here, even on my worst days.

some photos of my newly redecorated home - shout out to julia for the shelving unit and new couch. i got rid of my big blue plastic table, seeing as it was more of a storage space than anything
bedroom, with my nice new tall shelving unit. yay

view 1 of the living room, notice the new couch/love-seat, and matching curtains

view from my front door - i have a small wicker table to the right of the couch, perfect for holding my coffee mug in the morning


life continues to go on well here. had a semi-productive week, i cant believe its already thursday, one week back, and the time continues to fly. 

xoxo

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

thoughts from under my mosquito net

Hello everyone! I am safe and sound in my little grass shack here in Quissico, Mozambique. 

I arrived Saturday evening to the capital city of Maptuo, and then Sunday afternoon to my town of Quissico. Thankfully all of the flights were easy, I had very little trouble with my bags, my checked bag made it through the airports/security/theft without problem, and I have been able to give gifts to many people.

It was wonderful to be able to come home, to be with my mom and dad, help in small ways in his recovery, and just generally “be” with them and my brother. I was also able to spend time with other family members, my Oma and Opa came in a few times, and I was able to talk with them on the phone a bit, my Aunt Sara came to stay for a few days – her and I had a great time exploring the cheese counter at Penn Mac in the Strip District, and chatting about life in Peace Corps (she was a former volunteer in Kenya), my other set of grandparents came in for a lunch with the family, and many others. I was also able to see a number of good friends from college and my past life in the states. It was unreal seeing everyone.

That's the theme of this blog, how surreal huge changes can feel. I can remember quite clearly, the Monday before I went back to the states, “wow, its amazing how normal life here feels”…. Foreshadowing much? To then get a series of emails that had me on 5 different planes to get back to Pittsburgh, PA. It really hit me that I was going back to the steel town when I boarded the final plane from Paris to Pittsburgh, and everyone on board had some sort of Pittsburgh sports team jersey, logo, bag etc. . . turns out, many of the fans who traveled to London for the Steelers game the week before were heading home on this plane (having done the European circuit for about a week). I never thought I would have missed hearing “hey yinz guys!” so much.

As the plane landed, I took note of a scene I had totally forgotten about- Autumn! The leaves all changing colors, the brilliant yellows, reds, and oranges, mixed with the fading green, it was spectacular. My best friend was waiting for me at the airport, and my goodness, we could not have been more opposite. There she was in her business skirt suit, high heels and everything…. And then there was me – I had capulana pants, beaded sandals, and a billowy scarf on, hair in braids… could you guess which one of us just came back from Africa?

It was wild being in the passenger seat on the right side of the car, driving on the right side of the road, hot running water at my old apartment, a HOSPITAL! Wow… so the  hospital enough was to send me into a small internal panic attack. Its huge! I work in a hospital every day. . . and its maybe an 1/8th of the size? My hospital here is lucky if we have gauze pads, the hospital my dad was in had a specialized wing just for cardiac patients…. Yeah. America’s health system isn’t all that bad, people need to quit their complaining.

Seeing my dad in the hospital was tough. I don't know if it was from the travel exhaustion, the overwhelming fact that I was actually in Pittsburgh, or seeing him hooked up to tubes and whatnot. But I lost it when I saw him. And the worst part? I couldn't hug him because of the surgery that he had! I went almost two weeks at home without really being able to hug my dad – someone I had just literally jumped on (from a running start) in June in the Johannesburg airport.
            -side note, going through that airport was a mind trip because the last time I was there, was with him, and he was perfectly healthy. It was at that moment, that I became so thankful that this all happened when he was in the states, and not here in Mozambique.

So the first few days were really intense in America, lots of unexpected culture shock, and I think the thing that freaked me out the most was how NORMAL things felt. The first time I drove, it was wild. My body just knew exactly what I was doing, while mentally I was freaking the fuck out. I remembered how to speak fluent English, I knew exactly how to unload a dishwasher, etc. (I know those are weird examples) but yeah, things I hadn’t done in over a year just came back like no time had passed. Which freaked me out. My life is so different from stuff here, how can this feel normal?! Grocery stores, going down to the Strip District, and the fact that everyone always had change when I was purchasing things, WILD. I bought some fruit the one morning, and hande the woman a twenty dollar bill, immediately apologizing I didn't have something smaller, and began looking for small change – she looked at me with the strangest contemplation, and opened a cash register that was chock full of change! Who knew…

It was so great seeing friends and family, eating great food, taking advantage of hot running water etc. . .but it didn't feel right. No matter how much I was enjoying myself, there was always a small thought in the back of my head saying “this isn’t home” and its true, my life, my work, my home is here in Mozambique.

But now that I’m back, things here feel surreal as well. I wasn't gone that long, it was an equal amount of time to that of my northern adventure the month before, but because of the drastic culture change (from couches and cable, to pit latrines and speaking Portuguese) I felt a bit off my first day here. In my mind I was freaking out “wow, I know how to speak Portuguese”, when I got home, it was strange how NORMAL all of it felt. And the whole while I’m just thinking “when will something feel right?!”….

I’m now in my second full day here in Quissico, yesterday I walked all around town, went to all my orgs, called people to tell them I was back etc…. today is pouring down rain, so I’m taking the opportunity to write this post, study for the GRE’s, and hang out with my neighbors. I brought back lots of crayons and colored pencils, so we are just going to color until our hearts are content! Yay!


Its always the little things.



Thursday, October 3, 2013

emergency leave

Greetings from London Heathrow airport. 

For those of you who dont know, my dad was admitted to the hospital on monday due to chest pains. 

Receiving this information while being so far away was extremely difficult. Possibly one of the toughest things I've faced in Moz yet. 

The doctors ran a catheter into his veins and inserted dye to see where/if there were blockages in his heart.  All 4 of the arteries that go into his heart were almost blocked.  The back right 100%, back left 90%, top 80%, and the rear 75%.

I woke up yesterday (wed) morning to this news from my mom-
"Your Dad has to have a Quadruple by-pass surgery."

I was in shock.. this was the same man that just visited me in June. We literally just traveled all over Africa together, and I spoke with him on the phone that past sunday
 During the catheter procedure, they discussed whether to stint and balloon  but since the only real way to deal with the rear artery was through surgery, they decided to just take care of all the blockages with surgery. Basically, the by-pass surgery is as such; the doctors will be cutting him open, breaking his chest bone, deflating his lungs, and taking a vein from around his collar bone and other veins from his leg, etc.. one of the most invasive and intense surgeries.  This procedure was scheduled to begin around 600am EST, on Wed and when they took him back to insert breathing tubes, wash and shave his chest (do the prep part of it), with the cutting part of the surgery to begin around 730am EST. 

HE MADE IT THROUGH THE SURGERY :) like we all knew he would. getting that news here in London during my 2 hour layover was such a huge relief. 


So yes, i was granted Emergency Leave by Peace Corps. if i could give them a huge gold star, or bake choc chip cookies for everyone who helped make this possible i would. honestly, the hoops that some people jumped through to get me tickets all the way home and back (i return to moz in 2 weeks) was amazing. i packed a backpack in under 10min when i got the news i was granted leave, hopped out onto the EN1, and hitchhiked to the Inhambane Airport. I took off from there at 14:30 Moz time, landed in Maputo, took off from there to Johannesburg, South Africa. From there, I flew to London (where I am now) .... its 730am here (london time) .... next stop is Paris, then from there Pittsburgh. I will be back stateside at 5pm, and hopefully next to my dad at the hospital shortly after.
Have i mentioned that i am still in my pj's, havent really washed my face, and am not sure if i remembered to pack underwear? (thankgoodness they give you a toothbrush on the plane).
I'm not sure how long ive been awake, with time differences and everything. kind of running on adrennaline and such right now.
see you all stateside. 
to all who sent kind words of love and support, and positive vibes towards my family and i..... it is truly appreciated. the number of people who care has been astounding. i love you all.

Friday, September 27, 2013

another day, another dollar

A great, grand hello from Quissico!
Its Friday, plans for the weekend anyone? Another week slips by here in Mozambique, its already the end of September… woah buddy.

Overall the week was good, I was at the hospital a good amount, doing excel spreadsheets to try and help get the process of “buscas” organized. Buscas are meant to be used to locate people who are in the hospital system as eligible or receiving ARV medication, but are no longer adhering to them. These people have not come to the hospital or health center for their ARV/counseling etc.. the saddest part of these is realizing, seeing, and knowing just how many people are not adhearing to their medication. . . .especially the forms that I have been filling out and entering into the excel spreadsheets. . . they are all children under 5 years of age. They have no control over their “adherence” because it relies solely on the parents to get their children to the hospital. People don't come to the hospital for many reasons; difficulty with transport, no money, busy at home/at work etc.. when they don't come, and don't get their medications, their body builds up a resistance to these medications, which leads to more problems (other types of ARV drugs are not available etc).

The work can be very depressing, and I don't necessarily love the sitting in an office, plugging and chugging numbers thing – but it helps my org get more streamlined, and they are already suffering for manpower anyway… so whatever, every little bit helps.

The plus side to being in an office, is power to charge my computer, internet access to post blogs and to look at graduate school programs and a quiet place to study for the GRE when I’ve completed my work. Not a bad set up if you ask me.

So I was here all day Monday, Tuesday we had our REDES meeting where I taught the girls how to properly use condoms, putting them on a wooden phallus and everything. We talked about the importance of using them, where they can be procured (at the hospital, at my house etc) and how to use them. The basic steps of; looking at the expiration date, checking the package for holes, opening it carefully (not with teeth, scissors or fingernails) how to properly put one on a penis, how to remove it after sex, and where to dispose of it.
(my REDES group)

Of course there were lots of giggles, but every girl had their turn to practice, vocalizing the steps as they went. Afterwards we talked about what to do if someone doesn't want to use a condom, ways to say no to sex, and the importance of abstinence (all of the girls in my group haven’t had sex yet). We focused a bit on body language, and types of communication to get the point across “NO I do not want to have sex”. Etc…

This is the kind of work I love. Real, hands on, sexual education and behavior change. Hopefully this group continues to thrive, and we can have more great sessions like this.

Wednesday was a holiday here, so there was no work. I spent the morning studying for the GRE, and doing some research for grad school programs. . . my list keeps evolving, the more I read and do research, the more focused I get on the specificities of the programs. I will post a list of the ones I end up applying to.

I spent the day cooking with my neighbors, we made a fish curry, and a chicken curry, xima and rice, and salad. I had made some delicious desserts (orange spice cake, banana bread and ginger brownies) and my friend Julia from Inharrime came down to spend the day together. It was a perfect day by my standards of Mozambique. I spent time with my family, played with the kids, had a fellow PCV over, ate good food, and just enjoyed life.
(gutting fish for the curry)

Years in the future, when I look back at my time here in Moz, it wont be the work I remember, it’ll be these relationships, the afternoons spent on the porch, a baby on my lap, conversation with my friends and family and a smile on my face.

Yesterday we had another REDES meeting, this time we talked about the HIV test, why it is important, what it means, where to get one etc… I have 6 girls in my group right now, none have ever been tested, none are sexually active, but they all want to go get tested! I am SO proud of them. Hopefully I can get something set up this coming week so we can all go together. We stressed that it was completely voluntary, and that it would be private – and the girls all agreed that its important to go. So so fantastic.
Today I’m back at the hospital, doing data entry, and some life admin stuff. Sending emails, and such- just trying to get a grip on the future. Its odd, last year at this time I didn't have a care in the world (apart from learning Portuguese) now, I need to start thinking about real life, being a grownup again, and not just playing around in Africa. . . though my hope is to get into a good program, that allows me to find a job that pays me to do just that haha.

(lua and i on a typical night)

Bom fim de semana todos!
xo