Hello and Welcome!

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Quelimane, Zambezia Province, Mozambique
A small look into what my personal experiences in Mozambique are like. Written as a stream of consciousness, these are my thoughts, my successes and my failures. Life is all about the moments that we live in. I hope that the moment you take out of your life to read this blog is a positive one. The views and opinions in this blog are my own and do not reflect those of the U.S. Government or U.S. Peace Corps.

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

guess who's on vacation?

Hey there, Hi there, Ho there –
Last time I left off, it was the weekend between site identification/development visits, round three. I am very happy to say that they finished up well, and Zambezia Province will be receiving volunteers in many different sites, that are prepared and expectant!

I’m really excited to see how the change of the program goes for the new trainees. I really do like the idea of getting to see your permanent site while in training, to get a general idea about where you are going to live, the feel of the town, the work environment etc . . .and am loving the new policy of hosting them with a local family for this time, to give them another resource and friend for when they return to live the two years. However . . . this is a very big change. One that I feel we are sort of pulling together last minute. Fortunately things are falling into place, but there have been many road bumps along the way, forcing us to find alternative routes  - - I’m laughing at this, because the literal roads I was on to get to and from these sites were incredibly horrible and bumpy and often times we did have to four-wheel it through fields, finding our alternative route. Haha how ironic.

This past Sunday, I climbed aboard a bus (greyhound in style), and proceeded to travel for 25-26 hours down the country on the national road, to get to Maputo. We left Quelimane around 2am, and got into Maputo between 2-3am on Monday morning. . . yes, it was a very long day. And that is a fuckload of time to be sitting on a bus. Legs cramped, feet became swollen, water consumption was kept to a minimum to avoid the full bladder issues, and food was limited to crackers and peanut butter, with fruit to go with. Not the fanciest or nicest way to travel, but in all honesty, it wasn’t horrible, and I have had MUCH worse in this country. Perhaps I’ve just become accustomed to many hours on the road, who knows.

Monday was spent with some friends here in the city, I treated myself to some capulanas, we had lunch at a nice outdoor spot for cheap, and I spent the evening hanging out and catching up with them. Naturally, I fell asleep pretty early, and awoke yesterday to come to the Peace Corps office where I’ve been happily downloading new software for my computer, updating things for graduate school, trying to find internships/part time jobs for the fall as well, and getting my life sort of ‘organized’. 
working hard at the office 

some of my new capulana purchases

The reason for my travels? Bushfire music festival!!!  The lineup can be found here - http://www.bush-fire.com/article/view/2015_line_up  and I will be traveling there early Friday morning with some friends. I brought my tent and sleeping bag, and am really looking forward to a new stamp on the passport, some great music, time with friends, and a much needed vacation from my daily life in Moz.

Xo to you all

Your friend in the big city

Sunday, May 17, 2015

on the road again

Sunday Funday!
Taking the day to catch up on some emails, do laundry, clean the house, and just take it easy.

I was out on the road all of last week, doing the last round of site identification/development visits, which will continue next week as well. Osvaldo and I got a lot of great work done – identifying homestay families for the volunteers while they do their three-week at site integration during training, locating permanent houses for the volunteers for their two-year contract, and defining the job description/role that the volunteer will serve at each site.

It is a lot of work, and most days its absolutely exhausting, especially when driving on bumpy dirt roads - - and essentially having the same conversation over and over again at the different sites . . . BUT, it gets me the heck out of Quelimane, I have been privy to some beautiful sights, and have been fortunate enough to meet some really lovely people. One of the coolest things is that with this work for Peace Corps, I have been working alongside a counterpart as well who is Mozambican and it keeps the 'being in mozambique' thing going for me.

The pre-service training of this new group is changing from what it was for me (10 weeks in Namaacha with the homestay family) to a 6 week start in Namaacha, then 3 weeks at their site (living with a homestay family as well) then back to Namaacha for the last 4 weeks of more technical training. The newbie’s are already in country, having arrived May 1st. They go to their sites on June 10-12 so we are all in crunch mode to get things prepared and settled.

I’m actually staying with the homestay families when possible during these visits, and have a fantastic story to share with you all from the family in Alto Malocue;
We pull up alongside a typical Mozambique house, with an outdoor seating area, similar to that of a gazebo, and are greeted by the family. Having visited once before, we all sank into a more comfortable conversation that the basic introductions. The family is comprised of a loving mother, two twin daughters (age 18) and a son (age 21). The afternoon is spent preparing dinner, a quick walk around town, and the mom showing me off to all of her neighbors and neighborhood leader - - I had forgotten what it was like to be an adopted daughter of a homestay family.
Evening rolls around, and we are all settled inside the house, eating (unfortunately what was a disgusting dinner), and watching “how to train your dragon” in Portuguese on my computer. All in all, a very relaxing and non-awkward evening. . . Or so I thought it was to be. Sleep time came, and everyone went to their respective rooms. The mom turned to me and said “Daughter, you may have my bed”  . . not wanting to rob this woman of her own bed, I insisted that I sleep on the floor, like I had in other homes during our trip – she instantly declined that option. So to come to an agreement (because I was very tired at this point) I said “why don't we just share your bed”, and so it was.
I can now chalk that up as a life experience in Mozambique. Sharing a bed, or rather, a mat on the floor, with a random Mozambican mother. We essentially had to spoon because the sleeping pad was so small, and as we laid together under the mosquito net, with her small flashlight on her phone lit to give us a bit of light – we had some lovely chats, and I began to feel more at ease. It was one of the most awkward and adorable experiences I may have had in a long time here. . . unfortunately I did not sleep all that well, because of a snoring issue from the other side of the mat hahaha, however, it was incredibly generous of her to accept my request of sharing.

That experience, reminded me of just how open and generous some people in this country are to complete and total strangers.

This upcoming week will find me doing the same work, back on the road until Friday. Returning to Quelimane only for a day- because Sunday the 24th starts my trip to the SOUTH! That's right kiddies, I bought my bus ticket already, and have my mini-countdown going for these next 7 days until I’m back in Maputo.

My plan is to hang out in the capital city for a few days with my friends there, using the free internet at the Peace Corps office, etc. . .then Swaziland for the Bushfire Music Festival, and then a week in Quissico on my way back north. . maybe going to Tofo beach one last time as well. Its about time I had some sun and sand in my life. Anxiously awaiting the day when I can see my friends!

With that, I’ll leave you with some beautiful photos from the road this past week.
xo

one of those, life changing, sunsets

the mountains and tea fields of gurue

oh, the places i'll go


            

Monday, April 27, 2015

when the pavement runs out

Good morning Quelimane!

Finally back in the city after a couple of weeks spent on the road assisting with site development and preparations for the incoming volunteers. Exciting fact- they arrive on May 1. Our pre-service training is changing its style a bit this year, rather than spending 10 weeks in the homestay family of Namaacha and going to site afterwards, the trainees will spend 6 weeks in Namaacha with these families, 3 weeks at their site with a homestay family there, and then return to Namaacha for the final 4 weeks of training. The idea behind this, is to introduce the trainee to their site a bit sooner, while keeping the homestay family experience going. At their sites during these three weeks, they will begin the integration phase- find out where the market is, where they pay for energy, how the hospital is working, potential projects to get involved in, introduce themselves to the administration and other higher-ups of the town etc. Essentially getting a feel for where they will be spending their next two years rather than having Peace Corps drop them at a totally unknown location after the swear-in conference and wish us ‘good luck’.

So what have I been doing to help with the preparations for this new program? Good question – I’ve been on the road in the Zambezia, Niassa and Nampula provinces meeting with the health staff of communities where we wish to put volunteers, introducing the program, explaining a bit what it is like to be a volunteer here, what our skills and assets are, how we work etc. Giving the health staff a first hand view and example of a volunteer (touching on my experiences from the first two years a great deal) rather than just having someone explain what the organization does. It gives doctors and directors of the health centers a first hand look at what it may be like to have a volunteer working for them. I go into detail about what we may be like as Americans/foreigners/men/women etc. Habits of a different culture, how our language skills may not be up to snuff when we first get to site, blah, blah.

After our meetings with the health staff, we also meet with community based organizations if there are any around, and then meet with various homestay families, to conduct a mini-interview, assess houses, and end up choosing one after its all said and done.

Honestly, I really enjoyed this work over the past few weeks- it reminded me why I chose to stay in Mozambique for a third year. It was because of the people, the wonderful people I’ve met on this journey who open up their homes, want to know about other cultures, and want to work with volunteers to hopefully shape the future of some Mozambicans for the better. The country is so incredibly vast and beautiful. I’m going to post a bunch of photos with this blog from my time on the road that will hopefully show you some of the beauty that I’ve been privy to see.

I didn't really journal in a normal sense when I was on the road, instead, I penned down some words and quick descriptions that came to me as I was traveling. I’d like to share a quick few with you now – afternoons on the road; big huge sky that is a fluid combination of vibrant, rich colors, the trees reaching towards it, caressed in the setting sun, the mud huts set ablaze by the reddish orange light as it sinks farther down the horizon – the open road stretches before me, a lazy winding mixture of pavement and dirt that lead to unknown beauty, smiles and waves of children as we pass through a grouping of small buildings nestled together on the side of the road, those smiles, so pure and innocent, true beauty – the clouds create a proverbial ceiling between the hot earth and the crystal clear blue sky, how flat they are on the bottom compared the luscious tendrils that top them, the stark contrast between the sheer white and blue as they stretch over the brown road and green vegetation . . This is what I will remember most. 

It is hard to capture the true beauty of Moz in just words. And my words hardly do it all justice, as my photos will also not. . . but along this journey I was fortunate enough to view some truly majestic sights, and spend time with some wonderful peace corps staff- the first weeek was spent with Osvaldo, and the second was with Lucio. We traveled well together, I introduced them to some great bands from the states, and we got into some really great discussions that tested my Portuguese, and were enlightening.

While it is nice to be home in Quelimane, sleeping in my own bed (rather than a floor), not living out of a backpack, and not sitting in a bumpy car for 8+ hours a day -  - I’m not really feeling ‘at home’ here. For me, home is where you stand not where you sleep, where you are at that moment with your ever-evolving life, finding oneself in things that are totally and completely different than what you are-  bringing a glorious mixture to your personal world.

With that, I leave you with some photos from my adventures! 
Enjoy. And be well.

a classic shot of life on the road in mozambique

this is a protected tree, located about 2 hours northwest of Quelimane, its over 250 years old

chasing the sunset, one of the many i was privy to see

mountains in Milange, Zambezia, the dividing line between Moz and Malawi

Malawi peanuts vs Moz peanuts

smiles from Malawi! Yep, we hopped the border for a quick lunch, and a new stamp on my passport

one of the many sites I visited doing the development work

the view of stunning mountains, through a bug spattered window

dusty roads were the norm in Niassa

a beautiful forest in Massangulo, Niassa province

We drove from Mandimba to Ribaue in a day, and that was a small section of our journey

munching on sugar cane! YUM



Friday, April 10, 2015

love and memories

Do you ever get overwhelmed with a smell that instantly takes you back to a moment in your life? I had one this morning that left me with an immense smile on my face. 

It's a rainy morning here in Quelimane, which means its humid, but a bit cooler than normal (read, I’m wearing long sleeves and shorts rather than a tank top).  I ran outside quickly this AM to buy some phone credit and enjoyed some of the cool rain on my face as I greeted my normal credit vendor with a still-half-asleep smile. Thinking longingly about the coffee in my French press waiting for me upstairs. Taking the steps two at a time back up to my apartment I opened the door and was hit was the wonderful aroma of steeping coffee, rain, and a cool breeze from the veranda. The smells combined instantly took me back to weekends at The Cabin with my family and our close family friends. So many summer and early fall weekends were spent there, running amok in the woods, playing in the creek, building campfires, swinging in the hammock under the trees, and always the smell of coffee in the morning to go along with our eggs and pancakes.

It was one of those moments that I was instantly transported to a carefree time of natural beauty and loving relationships. Hence. . .the big smile on my face.

So as I sip my coffee this morning – I hope that you all take a moment to think of a happy memory.



Good friends are like stars...You don't always see them, but you know they are always there






Monday, April 6, 2015

tick. tock. tick. tock.

Good morning all-
In the ICAP office this morning, the entire team is in their weekly meeting, I was told that my attendance was not necessary about a month ago, so here I am hanging out waiting for my coworkers to be done.

Kind of a frustrating morning here in Quelimane – currently I feel like I’m in a gigantic waiting room . . .waiting for the DPS to get back to me about site development information, that I can then pass onto Peace Corps so then we can organize our travel schedule for this month’s visits. Waiting on ICAP to get their request forms for volunteers submitted to me (which should have been handed in, back in January) so I can then submit them to Peace Corps and we can add those locations to our site visits.

In addition to all of this, I’m waiting for responses from Peace Corps Medical Office regarding some severe back pain I’ve been having (I’ve been self medicating with Yoga, stretches, and ibuprofen), and waiting for news about scholarships and financial aid regarding graduate school.

Have you ever been told “no” in so many ways so many times that you eventually just stop caring? That's kind of how I’ve been feeling as of late. . . maybe that's the wrong way to say it. I’m still here and trying to be present in the moment, doing my work, and doing it well. . . Just not investing myself in things anymore because I’ve continuously been set up for disappointments.

Back in November it was- if things don't get better, we will consider moving you to Namaacha to help with PST and work there. Then when things didn't get better, it was – we don't need a volunteer in Namaacha, you are staying where you are . . .only to find out a month later they have a volunteer working full time there. (small slap in the face).  Found out this weekend that I’m not going to PST at all this year, and not being involved with the training of new volunteers in any way because they want to use current volunteers for the trainings . . .(so what exactly am I?).

I’ve been trying to organize a yoga retreat for volunteers, hopefully doing it the first weekend of July at two beach resorts here, one in the north, one in the south. . . just gauging volunteer interest at the moment and trying to determine logistics of it all. Peace Corps denied funding assistance to the proposed weekend, which is fine I suppose, just another semi-no. Hopefully it gains some traction and in the future it can be a PC organized and funded activity. Fingers crossed.

Recently I discovered that I have 45 unused vacation days here in Peace Corps. . . So I asked PC if I could use 30 of those days to COS early (close of service) allowing me a bit more time stateside to organize my life before school starts, see my parents before they move to Texas, etc . . . they said no. SO . . . I’m going to be using some of those days for my trip to Swaziland at the end of May and beginning of June to visit Quissico and other sites in the south.

That leaves me with many remaining days. . . and as of now, the idea is to travel to Myanmar to visit a Buddhist temple and see an old friend who is living there. I’m thinking travel dates of July 13-30th or so, coming back in time to pack up, and get to Maputo by August 10 to start my COS process.

I am not meaning to bad mouth Peace Corps . . .when talking to other volunteers about potential extending I continue to be very positive about it all. I’m trying to be a positive influence in volunteers experiences here, and a good resource for them. When people ask me if I could go back and decided to extend again or not - I still would. That's the insane part about it. This year has by far been the hardest of the entire experience. I’ve encountered a lot of “no”, a lot of frustration and personal struggle . .. but. . .I've also learned a lot. And its forced me to look deeper into a lot of things, allowed me a chance to focus on my health and wellness more, and shown me another side of Moz.

I’ve experienced the good with the bad as in all aspects of life. I had an incredible first two years, and had a not so great third year, therefore giving me a full perspective.

Not too much going on this week – just work per normal, and working out. I started the Insanity workouts and have been interchanging one day of Insanity with one day of a good yoga flow. My lower back has been killing me, but I need the cardio and exercise to keep me sane. The yoga helps my back from fully falling apart, and my mental health in check.



Namaste

Thursday, March 26, 2015

Stomping OUT Malaria, in MOZ


Some info for you all to think about -

Malaria, an infection caused by the plasmodium parasite, has been a critical public health challenge for thousands of years. From the first recorded sighting in China in 2,700 BC, its signature high cyclical fever and anemia have gone on to kill hundreds of millions of people and the total number of infections is in the billions. In the year 2005 alone, World Health Organization estimates indicated that malaria infected between 350 and 500 million people and killed over 1 million, 90% of whom lived in sub-Saharan Africa. Most of those were children.



Since 2005, a massive international malaria control effort has begun to make significant progress. In 2010, WHO estimated that the number of malaria deaths annually had dropped to 655,000, with the majority of the decrease attributable to increased availability and usage of long lasting insecticide-treaded nets (LLINs). With the LLIN coverage across the continent reaching high levels, ho
wever, the potential for additional gains through net distributions diminishes. The international malaria prevention community, while maintaining high levels of net coverage, has increasingly turned its focus to training community health workers to diagnose and treat malaria in the home. As an organization supporting grassroots development, Peace Corps Volunteers work closely with CHWs across Africa.

Mozambique officially joined the Stomping Out Malaria in Africa Initiative in February of 2012. Volunteers commonly integrate malaria prevention education into routine home visits to HIV positive people and OCVs (orphans and vulnerable children. They also work with organizations to help with bed net distributions, indoor spraying campaigns, and other behavior change campaigns.

Check out more amazing work being done by volunteers around the continent! 

http://stompoutmalaria.org/2015/03/

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

algumas novidades

Good morning!
It has been a good while since I’ve posted- apologies. Things haven’t necessarily been busy here, its just that I’m not sure what to write about.

A few weeks ago, I finished up with the first round of site identification/development visits for the incoming health group (they arrive the first day of May) and spent a week or so in Quelimane, doing whatever it is I do here. From there I traveled to the northern city of Nampula, where I helped to facilitate the project design management (PDM) conference for the group Moz 22. This conference is held 6 months into our service here, giving us a chance to learn how to create, develop/design and implement a project alongside our counterparts to address the needs of our communities.

Sixteen Volunteers brought 17 counterparts from their local organizations to participate in the conference in Maputo and 11 Volunteers and 13 counterparts attended the workshop in Nampula. We are excited to see the community health projects they implement in their communities throughout the rest of their service!

From Nampula I traveled with the volunteers from the Nampula conference to Ilha de Mozambique. This was my second time on the island; I had traveled there in September of 2013 with my good friend Olivia after our REDES Handover conference. The island hadn’t changed, but I have, along with my interests. I had less of a desire to go to the discothèque, drink on the pier, etc. Instead I took the time to really see the historical aspects of the island. Went exploring through the fort, the historical museum that was once the governor’s house, the memorial garden, which honors those who were sold in the slave trade.  I took a lot of time to just relax, swim a good bit around the pier, and collect some beautiful sea glass. All in all, it was a fantastic and much needed mini-vacation.

I returned to Quelimane after a hellacious 14 hour trip that included 6 modes of transportation – a chapa to get from the island to Nampula, a personal car to get from one end of the city to the other, a big greyhound-style bus that took me to the turn-off to Quelimane, an open back truck that took me into the city and finally a bike taxi that took me to my apartment from the central market. It was a LONGGG day, and the next day, I don't think I moved far from my bed. 
at the fort

loving the sun and ocean

view of the pier from the top of the fort

some of the beautiful colors and architecture of Ilha


The last few weeks have been a boring string of daily life in Quelimane. Much of my work is still via computer/email, as I plan things for the upcoming round of site identification/development. I’ve been attempting to get in touch with people at the DPS, with little luck. Showing up to ICAP only creates more stress in my life because the office is such a negative work environment, and the end of this week finds me compiling the monthly reports from the volunteers we have in the districts. In addition to that, its time for our VRF (volunteer reporting form) to be filled in and turned into Peace Corps. While many volunteers do their own M&E in the field with their projects, and for various organizations the VRF is our own form of Monitoring and Evaluation. Fun times. . .

I was fortunate enough to participate in a Peace Corps panel at my old university, where two RPCV’s and myself were there to share our experiences and encourage people to apply for Peace Corps. It was a very interesting panel, full of similar life experiences and stories, though we all served at different times and in different countries. The panel didn't happen until midnight/1am my time here, so the next day was spent sleeping and working from home.

Today I’m back in the ICAP office, where I’m politely ignored, and not included in anything. Whatever.

I’ve started a countdown for various events- 140 days until I leave country, 34 days until the Bushfire Music Festival, and 125 days until my birthday. Haha! I’ve also selected my classes for the fall semester of school, and am trying to figure out my living situation. If anyone knows of a good but cheap road bike being sold, please let me know, I’m looking for one!!

Also, thought this was interesting and that you would all enjoy-
“Throughout service, Volunteers develop a relationship with a place like you would with a loved one.  First comes infatuation. Delighted by its immediate novelty and stimulated by adventure, you can’t wait to know it more intimately and give it all of your attention. Soon after the honeymoon phase recedes, however, you begin to perceive all of its “flaws,” and you’re forced to figure out whom you are in the face of all that is different from you. You might even come to resent the community for not being what you wanted it to be (for not satisfying you the way you hoped it would), before feeling so low you begin to wonder if it’s all worth doing in the first place. Then, like in any successfully intimate relationship, you discover the beauty in its depths and come to love it despite (or in spite of) its imperfections. You feel empowered because you see yourself and your community from a whole new perspective. You go on living, permanently altered by a secret only you are privy to because of the way you’ve experienced it directly.” - - written by a volunteer who recently COS’d from Armenia.

I can totally relate to this entire paragraph, and at this point, I’m looking forward to the work I have remaining in my service, and the next adventure on the horizon.

Be well-
t


Monday, March 2, 2015

moZAMbique

Hi hi hi!

It’s been a busy few weeks here in Zambezia province for me! Last week found me on the road participating in the first round of site visits and development for the incoming health group (this will be Moz group 24) in May. We had to change our schedule almost on a daily basis because of the massive flooding and road destruction throughout the province. Overall it was a great week, I really enjoyed getting out of the city, seeing some beautiful parts of this province, and meeting new people in the district sites. In the evenings I was hosted by the local volunteer in the town, and being able to walk around small towns, have a beer or two at the local barraca, and chat with people in the market made me feel like I was 'back in mozambique'. . . my life in the city is totally different from life in the districts/communities. 
what some of the roads look like in Zambezia province

our traveling office for the week

the view above beautiful alto malocue

the market in morrumbala


the bridge that connects the district of ile to namarrori - the volunteers we have there have not yet been able to return to site

the bridge collapsed as the truck was driving over it

The main focus of these visits was to introduce Peace Corps to the directors of health, directors of the hospital, and any district coordinators from INGO’s that work in the district. Some locations filled out a form, asking for a volunteer, and others didn't, but we visited anyway. One of the most positive things that could happen for a Peace Corps program happened to us in December. The health program is now officially linked with the ministry of health through a memorandum of understanding. This means that hospitals can directly request a volunteer, and that we will not need to be reliant on an INGO’s presence and the work that they provide for us.
            -The education program has had a memorandum with the ministry of education since we opened peace corps Mozambique in 1998 . . . the health program started here in 2004, and in 2014 we finally signed a memorandum. This is a BIG thing.

The districts that I had the opportunity to visit were; Morrumbala, Mopeia, Namacurra, Mocuba, Alto Malocue, and Ile. We were on the road Mon-Friday, and I returned to Quelimane in the afternoon on Friday. Hosted some volunteers here this past weekend and we had a lovely time. I will continue to say, that Quelimane is so much better when I have someone to pal around with.

Things are getting better for me. . .work is keeping me busy – various things going on in the numerous roles that I play. With ICAP we have created a template for peace corps volunteers to report what they are doing on a monthly basis- these are turned in on the 25th of each month, and are submitted to our supervisors and the Maputo office for review and feedback. I think this is going to be an eye-opener for the teams about how underused the volunteers are, and where we want to be more involved/how we can participate.

With my role as PCVL, I’m leaving again this weekend for Nampula to help facilitate Moz 22’s project design management conference. That should be a nice time, and useful. I remember my PDM conference – it gave me the basic information and structure to design a project with my counterparts at ACOMUZA. I hope this group feels the same.

With the DPS I am still trying to make headway – they are excellent about staying in touch and communicating with me, but actual things happening are a bit harder.
The Nucleo Provincial do combate ao HIV/Aids has been busy creating a yearly program and budget for the HIV programs around the province. I was helpful in this process, showing my counterpart there how to use Microsoft excel to create an easier to understand/use budget. I’m excited to go there tomorrow to see how things have been going.

And to top it all off- I have scheduled myself some much needed R&R time after this PDM conference in Nampula . . Taking the location opportunity to travel over to Ilha de Mozambique. Which, in my opinion is one of the most beautiful places in this entire country. I’ve also bought my tickets to the Bushfire music festival in Swaziland at the end of May, so that is a fun adventure to look forward to as well.

Adventures, trying to stay busy, and the start of a new month…. 5 more to go!


Tuesday, February 17, 2015

another beautiful something

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/02/10/sergei-polunin-hozier_n_6655920.html?ir=Women&ncid=fcbklnkushpmg00000046

enjoy